Ask The Experts

Sand the edge by hand or machine satring with 150 grit then 180, then to 220 or 240 grit. Then apply one coat of a water based sanding sealer, let dry then sand with 320 grit until uniformly smooth. Remove the dust, and then apply 1-2 coats of a waterbased lacquer or polyurethane in satin sheen. I'd use a small brush or possibly a paint pad or roller to apply these products. <br /><br />Some waterbased products are self-sealing, meaning they don't require a special sealer. They product is both sealer and finish and should say on the can. <br /><br />Jeff

You'll have to sand any waterbased coating after the 1st or 2nd to relieve grain raising, but after that you shouldn't have to sand bewteen coats of most waterbased acrylic lacquers. The one I would recommend would be General Finishes Water Based Lacquer<br /><br />Here is a link<br /><br />www.generalfinishes.com<br /><br />Jeff

There really isn't anything you can put over the existing finish that will stick properly. I suggest removing the original coating and using a marine finish called 2 part urethane. You can find this product at the link below. <br /><br />Jeff<br /><br />http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=70

McCloskey stains were discontinued 6 years ago. The current owner of the McCloskey brand name is Valspar and their replacement product is called Cabot. The website is here<br /><br />http://www.cabotstain.com/<br /><br /><br />Customer Service<br />Mail to:<br />100 Hale Street Newburyport, MA 01950<br />Technical Hotline within the US and Canada<br />1-800-US-STAIN<br />Technical Hotline outside of the US and Canada<br />978-465-1900All fields required<br /><br />

As a rule you want a pre-sealer (I'm assuming you mean a stain controller/conditioner/washcoat etc) to be 5-7% solids content by weight after thinning. So it would vary a bit depending on the type of finish. If you are using Nitrocellulose based, vinyl or shellac that works out to around 2 parts thinner to 1 part finish. For waterbase you may want to up that to 3 parts thinner to 1 part finish.<br /><br />Jeff

It may vary by manufacturer of the sizing but I always use a 1:1 ration. Experimentation is necessary because woods vary in absorption. Also I always try to wipe the size after application with a spray gun (or you can just rag it on). Wiping forces it into the porous area better and usually guves a more even stain result. Make sure you scuff sand it after drying. <br /><br />Jeff

McCloskey Products were discontinued 6 years ago. The company that bought them makes Cabot Stains and Finishes and they may have a recommendation, however the Minwax stain by the same name or Jacobean Oak may be close. <br /><br />Cabot Customer Service <br /><br />Technical Hotline within the US and Canada <br />1-800-US-STAIN <br />Technical Hotline outside of the US and Canada <br />978-465-1900 <br /><br />

McCloskey Products were discontinued 6 years ago. The company that bought them makes Cabot Stains and Finishes and they may have a recommendation, however the Minwax stain by the same name or Jacobean Oak may be close. <br /><br />Cabot Customer Service <br /><br />Technical Hotline within the US and Canada <br />1-800-US-STAIN <br />Technical Hotline outside of the US and Canada <br />978-465-1900 <br /><br />

If the old color is an opaque paint (you can't see the wood figure or grain underneath the color)then all you have to do clean it with TSP and water, sand with 150 grit sandpaper and then re-paint. <br /><br />If the color is transparent stain (you can see the wood grain and figure) then you have to strip the finish, then sand to bare wood until it will accept water (it doesn't bead up the water). Then stain it with an ebony stain. <br /><br />Jeff

The McCloskey brand name was purchased by Cabot coatings about 5 years and the Tungseal line of stains discontinued. You might call Cabot Customer service at the number below and see if they have a suggested replacement in the Cabot line. <br /><br />Cabot Customer Service <br /><br />Technical Hotline within the US and Canada <br />1-800-US-STAIN <br />Technical Hotline outside of the US and Canada <br />978-465-1900 <br /><br />Regards<br /><br />Jeff

The Minwax Dark Walnut and Oil Based Stain Controller should match.<br /><br />Jeff

Cabot #8127 PECAN should match the Fruitwood Tungseal. There is a Fruitwood Cabot but it doesn't match. Jeff <br />

You should wash it down with TSP. Then rinse with clear water and then sand with 150 grit. After sanding wipe the residue with a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and water. Then apply your painting schedfule. <br /><br />Jeff

You should sand the wood until you can see the stain penetrate on an unseen surface. Wiping stain are meant to be applied to bare wood so they can cure properly and develop the desired color. <br /><br />Jeff

Most clear finishes are OK once the solvents evaporate (usually 72 hours)for contact with food or the mouth. Stains can be dicey because some colorants may contain heavy metals. You should contact the people that bought out McCloskey and see if the current lineup of Cabot stains can be used for this.<br /><br />For Cabot Customer Service <br /><br />Technical Hotline within the US and Canada <br />1-800-US-STAIN <br />Technical Hotline outside of the US and Canada <br />978-465-1900 <br /> <br /><br />

The McCloskey brand name was purchased by Cabot coatings about 5 years and the Tungseal line of stains discontinued. You might call Cabot Customer service at the number below and see if they have a suggested replacement. <br /><br />Cabot Customer Service <br /><br />Technical Hotline within the US and Canada <br />1-800-US-STAIN <br />Technical Hotline outside of the US and Canada <br />978-465-1900 <br /><br />Regards<br /><br />Jeff

The McCloskey brand name was purchased by Cabot coatings about 6 years and the Tungseal line of stains discontinued. Cabot #8127 PECAN should match the Fruitwood Tungseal. There is a Fruitwood Cabot but it doesn't match.<br />You might call Cabot Customer service however at the number below and see if they concur or can suggest a replacement. <br /><br />Cabot Customer Service <br /><br />Technical Hotline within the US and Canada <br />1-800-US-STAIN <br />Technical Hotline outside of the US and Canada <br />978-465-1900 <br /><br />Regards<br /><br /><br />Jeff

The McCloskey brand name was purchased by Cabot coatings about 5 years and the Tungseal line of stains discontinued. You might call Cabot Customer service at the number below and see if they have a suggested replacement. <br />As I recall the McCloskey Light Walnut stain used Gilsonite (a natural mineral like tar) as the colorant. The Minwax Fruitwood or Golden Oak might be a suitable replacement. Look for a stain that lists Gilsonite as one of the ingredients. <br /><br />The best thing to do is call:<br /><br />Cabot Customer Service <br /><br />Technical Hotline within the US and Canada <br />1-800-US-STAIN <br />Technical Hotline outside of the US and Canada <br />978-465-1900 <br /><br />Regards<br /><br />Jeff

Re-staining something that's already finished requires stripping (removing) the finish. Stripping finish is best done with a chemical remover. If it's an old clear finish, or a lacquer finish, it should come off easily with something called a furniture refinisher:<br /><br />http://www.minwax.com/products/specialty_products/antique_furniture_refinisher.html<br /><br />Using this product requires chemical resistant gloves (usually sold where the remover is, and 00 steel wool) <br /><br />This product does not work on paint, polyurethane or modern finishes, which require something called paint and varnish paste remover. If you use this product you need gloves, plenty of rags and a wide putty knife. <br /><br />With both products make sure you work in a well ventilated area, preferably outdoors in the shade. Do not work in a closed environment or outside in direct sunlight. <br /><br />Once you get the finish off, sand the wood with 150, then 220, going with the grain of the wood. If it's veneer be careful not to sand too much. If you're not sure, don't do too much sanding in one place. Then you stain with a black (sometimes sold as ebony) stain and apply clear finish. <br /><br />Jeff

I have achieved results similar to stining within 2 hours by letting the stain dry completely. I would very lightly sand using 400 grit and go ahead with your staining. If there is a slight differenece I don't think it will be noticeable. <br /><br />Jeff

Cabot says #8124 Cherry is the match but it is a little redder and darker. You might want to mix it with some #8122 Fruitwood to get a better match.

The first step is to determine whether the just the finish is scratched or the finish and stain both are damaged. This can be easily determined by wiping the scratch with mineral spirits or naphtha. If the scratch seems to disappear completely after you wipe on the solvent, just the finish is affected - see Step 1. If the scratched area appears lighter, then both the stain and finish are damaged - see Step 2.<br /><br />Step 1. If the finish is the only part that

Cabot #8136 Antique Walnut is the replacement<br /><br />Jeff

The McCloskey brand name was purchased by Cabot coatings about 5 years ago and the Tungseal line of stains and McCloskey Finishes discontinued. There is no replacement for the product you mention I'm aware of. At this point I would try Cabot Customer Service here: <br /><br />Technical Hotline within the US and Canada <br />1-800-US-STAIN <br />Technical Hotline outside of the US and Canada <br />978-465-1900 <br /><br /><br />If all fails and you have a bit of the stain left, try a Sherwin Williams Branch location that is listed in your yellow pages or phone book as a "Commercial Branch". They may be able to use their computer and experience in color matching to mix you up a replacement color in their product line. It's better to deal with the commercial branches if possible, particularly if you are a contractor or small business in the trades. If no commercial branch is listed, try one of the consumer branches and explain the situation. <br /><br />Regards<br /><br />Jeff

Cabot #8126 Provincial is the match to the Tungseal Dark Oak color. <br /><br />Jeff

Try Cabot #8126 Provincial. Jeff

Most waterbornes can go over a fully cured oil stain. To check - wipe the dry stain lightly wioth a white cloth. If any stain transfers let it dry longer.<br />Some stains seem to cause problems on a regular basis - particular the sark Minwax colors such as red mahogany. I would put 1 coat of SealCoat or equivalent dewaxed 2 lb cut shellac before applying the Crystalac.<br /><br />Also - it's not a bad idea to ask the manufacturer. Some waterbornes aren't meant to go over oil based products. <br /><br />Jeff

Cabot #8127 PECAN should match the Fruitwood Tungseal. There is a Fruitwood Cabot but it doesn't match. Jeff

Many McCloskey products were discontinued 5+ years ago when Valspar purchased them. There is no current information on #7961 exept that it may have been the Waterproof Wood Protector. It definitely is no longer available. <br />The only current product in the Cabot line is waterbased and I don't know how well it will work over your old finish. I suggest you call their customer service and ask them about the McCloskey #7961 number and find out exactly what it was. <br /><br />For Cabot Customer Service <br /><br />Technical Hotline within the US and Canada <br />1-800-US-STAIN <br />Technical Hotline outside of the US and Canada <br />978-465-1900 <br /><br />If this doesn't get you anywhere you should pressure wash the old surface and then scrub really well with a mild bleach solution. There are plenty of oil based product out there including Olympic, Thompsons, etc that will work as well as the old product. <br /><br />Jeff

The replacement is #8126 Provincial by Cabot Stain<br /><br />Jeff

The replacement color is #8138 Maple by Cabot Stains

Any of the Sherwin Williams Paint store branches should have it. <br /><br />Jeff

Try Cabot stains which are sold at Home Depot - they have a Fruitwood color, or perhaps the Pecan which looks close on the Minwax color chart. You can also buy Minwax stains on-line. - Jeff

From what I can tell you would use the Cabot Red Chestnut #8135. <br /><br />The McCloskey brand name was purchased by Cabot coatings about 5 years and the Tungseal line of stains discontinued. You might call Cabot Customer service at the number below and see if they have a different suggested replacement. <br /><br />Cabot Customer Service <br /><br />Technical Hotline within the US and Canada <br />1-800-US-STAIN <br />Technical Hotline outside of the US and Canada <br />978-465-1900 <br /><br />Regards<br /><br />Jeff

That's something you should run past Minwax<br /><br />Minwax® Company<br />10 Mountainview Road<br />Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458<br />Phone: 800-523-9299<br /><br />A google search of on-line reatilers pulled up dozens of hits, including amazon.com<br /><br />Jeff

Apply one full, wet coat of the primer and let dry overnight at least. Sand with 220-240 grit sandpaper (SandBlaster 3M is a good choice).<br /><br />Remove the dust with damp cloth and repeat. If the surface is till rough (it's normal for some more) sand again with the paper. <br /><br />Apply two coats of the paint, If you need to sand lightly between coats it's OK.

The McCloskey brand name was purchased by Cabot coatings about 5 years and the Tungseal line of stains discontinued. There is no replacement for the Tungseal Light Oak. You will have to try on your own to find a Varathane brand or Minwax brand that matches your requirements. <br /><br />If all fails and you have a bit of the stain left, try a Sherwin Williams Branch location that is listed in your yellow pages or phone book as a "Commercial Branch". They may be able to use their computer and experience in color matching to mix you up a replacement color in their wiping stain base. It's better to deal with the commercial branches if possible, particularly if you are a contractor or small business in the trades. <br /><br />For Cabot Customer Service <br /><br />Technical Hotline within the US and Canada <br />1-800-US-STAIN <br />Technical Hotline outside of the US and Canada <br />978-465-1900 <br /><br />Regards<br /><br />Jeff

The McCloskey brand name was purchased by Cabot coatings about 5 years and the Tungseal line of stains discontinued. <br /><br />There is an on-line store that lists current stains that match the old McCloskey Colors here:<br /><br />http://www.o-geepaint.com/ArchiCoats/cabot.shtml<br /><br />Regards<br /><br />Jeff

It has been discontinued and the folks that bought McCloskey (Cabot Wood Coatings) says there is no match. <br /><br />Jeff

The McCloskey brand name was purchased by Cabot coatings about 5 years and the Tungseal line of stains discontinued. You might call Cabot Customer service at the number below and see if they have a suggested replacement. <br />The Cabot color that replaces it is also called Fruitwood. <br /><br />If all fails and you have a bit of the stain left, try a Sherwin Williams Branch location that is listed in your yellow pages or phone book as a "Commercial Branch". They may be able to use their computer and experience in color matching to mix you up a replacement color in their wiping stain base. It's better to deal with the commercial branches if possible, particularly if you are a contractor or small business in the trades. <br /><br />For Cabot Customer Service <br /><br />Technical Hotline within the US and Canada <br />1-800-US-STAIN <br />Technical Hotline outside of the US and Canada <br />978-465-1900 <br /><br />Regards<br /><br />Jeff

Find a distributor in your area for Old Masters Oil Based Gel Stains. They have fruitwood. <br /><br />http://www.oldmastrs.com/products/gelstns.html<br /><br />Jeff

If by "lacquer" you mean a standard nitrocellulose, lacquer thinner based lacquer, I see no problems as long as the stain is dry. If you mean a waterborne lacquer, there might be problems with some of the Minwax oil stains. Some pre-catalyzed lacquers may have problems, but these usually can be mitigated with the use of a vinyl sealer. <br />Minwax is owned by Sherwin Williams, so I would think it may be prudent to ask SW rather than someone's opinion. When dealing with SW it's best to ask questions at the commercial branches rather than the consumer stores. <br /><br />Jeff

Any plywood can be hard to stain, but as a rule, the open grained oak plys do better with wood stains than tighter grained birches, maples as well as the wood used in sandeply. <br /><br />You can control staining penetratation and appearance on the sandply by using a stain controller first. Minwax makes the product - just make sure to use the oil based stain controller for oil based stains and the water based controller for waterbased stains. <br /><br />At this point I would suggest trying some controller/stain on a scrap piece and see if the appearance is acceptable to you. <br /><br />For future reference, sandeply is best finished clear or painted. <br /><br />Jeff

The McCloskey brand name was purchased by Cabot coatings about 5 years and the Tungseal line of stains discontinued. You might call Cabot Customer service at the number below and see if they have a suggested replacement. <br />As I recall the McCloskey Red Mahogany was pretty close to the Minwax stain of the same name so this might be a suitable replacement. The Cabot color that replaces it is also called Red Mahogany #8131. <br /><br />If all fails and you have a bit of the stain left, try a Sherwin Williams Branch location that is listed in your yellow pages or phone book as a "Commercial Branch". They may be able to use their computer and experience in color matching to mix you up a replacement color in their wiping stain base. It's better to deal with the commercial branches if possible, particularly if you are a contractor or small business in the trades. <br /><br />For Cabot Customer Service <br /><br />Technical Hotline within the US and Canada <br />1-800-US-STAIN <br />Technical Hotline outside of the US and Canada <br />978-465-1900 <br /><br />Regards<br /><br />Jeff

The finish that's used on the pre-finished ply will have to abraded lightly to insure adhesion. Use 400-600 grit CAMI sandaper or 600 grit P (FEPA grade) sandpaper and then wipe the residue away. <br />Common finsihes available from a lumber/plywood/cabinet distributer would be solvent based acrylic lacquer (CAB-Acrylic),nitrocellulose lacquer and most precats. Water-based acrylics can be used as well. <br />I'd avoid finishes from a Home Center or DIY Center because you never really know what you're getting. Ones I've run into would be waterbased acrylics and poly (Minwax and Varathane). Avoid oil based polyurethanes. <br /><br /><br />Jeff

Teak is a very stable wood and should hold up fine in a warm room. You can leave it unfinished or finished.<br /><br />Jeff

The McCloskey brand name was purchased by Cabot coatings about 5 years and the Tungseal line of stains discontinued. You might call Cabot Customer service at the number below and see if they have a suggested replacement. <br /><br />Cabot Customer Service <br /><br />Technical Hotline within the US and Canada <br />1-800-US-STAIN <br />Technical Hotline outside of the US and Canada <br />978-465-1900 <br /><br />Regards<br /><br />Jeff

The person who asked about the product can be contacted here.<br /><br />gerrydecave@earthlink.net<br /><br />Jeff

The McCloskey branded stain was discontinued 4 years ago. It is not made anymore. According to the folks who bought McCloskey, Cabot Interior Wood Stain #8130 replaces it and should be a match.<br /><br />Jeff

The McCloskey brand name was purchased by Cabot coatings about 5 years and the Tungseal line of stains discontinued. You might call Cabot Customer service at the number below and see if they have a suggested replacement. <br />As I recall the McCloskey Walnut stain used Gilsonite (a natural mineral like tar) as the colorant. The Minwax Jacobean or Dark Walnut also use this so they might be a suitable replacement. Look for a stain that lists Gilsonite as one of the ingredients. <br /><br />Cabot Customer Service <br /><br />Technical Hotline within the US and Canada <br />1-800-US-STAIN <br />Technical Hotline outside of the US and Canada <br />978-465-1900 <br /><br />Regards<br /><br />Jeff

Contact Customer Service for this request.<br /><br />Eastern US 800.237.2428<br />Western US/Canada 800.547.1791<br />Northeast US/Canada 888.664.1964<br />Central US 800.760.3341<br />Imports 800.808.9080<br /><br />Jeff

A center balance match is a way of arranging the veneer on a standard size plywood panel. It is typically used in architectural applications. It means that the individual veneer pieces are all the same width and arranged so there is a edge-to-edge joint in the center of the panel. The result of this is that grain patterns produced are even and symmetrical within each panel. In a center balance match there are always an even number of veneers. <br /><br />Jeff<br />

Yes you can. <br /><br />1. Assuming you are using oil based Zar polyurethane, all you have to do is scuff the Antique oil with 600 grit sandpaper, then wipe the residue from sanding with some mineral spirits on a rag. Then apply the Zar. <br /><br />2. If you are using Zar waterborne Urethane, then sand the Antique Oil with 600 grit, remove the residue with mineral spirits and then apply one coat of a product called Zinsser SealCoat Universal Shellac Sealer. Make sure it's SealCoat and not one of their other shellac products. Let dry, sand lightly again with the 600 grit, then remove the residue with a lightly water-dampened rag. Let dry and then apply the Zar. <br /><br />Jeff

As long as the wood product you used is pre-finished by Columbia or finished with some sort of protective finish (varnish, lacquer polyurethane) you can clean it with a damp cloth with just a little dishwashing detergent (like Dawn). Other products that can be used are Pledge and most consumer wood polishes and cleaners. <br /><br />Jeff

It appears from Cabots website that you would use the product #8120 Natural base to make a custom stain color. You would have to visit the website to find a dealer <br /><br />http://www.cabotstain.com/<br /><br />or call their Hotline at 1-800-US-STAIN to get more information. <br /><br /><br />Jeff

Depends on the severity of the scratch. Superficial or light scratches can be handled with paste wax or a clear polish. If they are deep you might try inpainting with some clear lacquer. <br />Because the finish used doesn't remelt, deep scratches will probably show so it would be best to use damaged material on insides where it won't be seen. It should also go without saying that careful handling to avoid scratches in the first place should be practiced. <br /><br />Jeff

Sand the surface with a no-load premium sandapaper such as 3M 216u or Mirka Royal in 220 or 240 grit. Remove the sanding dust and debris with Naphtha, then prime the surface with a shellac based primer called BIN, made by Zinsser. When dry, sand smooth with 320 grit and then apply any paint you wish. It can be lacquer, oil or water based. <br /><br />You can subsitute another primer if you use a specialty product such as conversion varnish or pre-cat lacquer, just makes sure you tell your supplier that you are painting on a UV-cured acrylated clear finish. If he's not sure which primer to use I would suggest a pigmented vinyl primer/sealer. <br /><br />Jeff

If you spray your finishes, then either a water-white conversion varnish or CAB-Acrylic lacquer in satin sheen (40 degree) over a vinyl sealer will work. <br /><br />If you brush finishes, then a waterborne non-yellowing, water clear polyurethane like General Finishes High Performance Polyurethane in satin sheen will match pretty well. <br /><br />Avoid darker or strongly amber finishes like shellac and oil based polyurethanes and varnishes. <br /><br />Jeff

You need to establish a mechanical bond between the finished ply and your finish by sanding with 240 grit. Then wipe with Naphtha. I would urge you to cross-check my following recommendation with your finish supplier, but typically I would use a vinyl sealer that's compatible with your catalyzed varnish as a tie-coat to your cat varnish. <br /><br />Jeff

You use what is called an exterior gloss varnish, also known as a marine or spar varnish. Plan on 6-8 coats. <br />My experience with the consumer versions of these and consumer exterior poly is that there are poor. You might see 1-2 years out of this finish. It's better that you get a product sold for boats as they are typically more durable (and more expensive. Try a search for "Interlux Schooner Varnish" which is one of the better ones. <br /><br />If you can live with the color they add a "system" like that made by Sikkens is even better<br /><br />http://www.loghelp.com/finishes/finishes3a.html#123plus<br /><br />The transparent iron oxides in the final coat will add color, but these pigments have a tremendous UV blocking ability. <br /><br />Jeff

I don't think such a glue exists. The main issue I see it that you will trap the solvents in the glue and they can't escape. <br />There is a product called Roo-Glue<br /><br />http://www.rooglue.com/rooclear.html<br /><br />that some have had success with, but you will need to leave it in the clamps a long time. If this is something you absolutely have to do, make sure that it's not a structural or load sensitive component. <br /><br />Jeff

I would look at a waterborne clear lacquer. One that comes to mind is Minwax Polycrylic, which is available just about anywhere. Since you have a non-traditional applicvation you may have to test it out first. <br /><br />Jeff

Let it dry, sand it with 600 grit ultra fine sandpaper, and then re-coat it with the poly. <br /><br />Jeff

I don't see why not. All the colors are oil based and clean up with mineral spirits. <br /><br />Jeff

When uneven staining happens it

Oil base poly is the most durable product a consumer can apply. Why the product is not applying well may be due to the fact that you got a fast-dry version. I don't know exactly what you mean be speckles, but this sounds either like entrapped air bubbles or dirt. <br /><br />Consider switching to a slower drying version or another brand like Cabot. Also make sure you strain it through a fine mesh strainer before applying. Many finishers also find thinning with 10% odorless mineral spirits helps in brushing. (Don't worry about the warning on the can not to thin)<br /><br />Oil based poly's do take a while to reach maximum protection against scratches and nicks so wait 30 days at least before hard use. <br /><br />You should be able to switch to a slower version or another brand as long as prep the old surface by sanding with 600 grit sandpaper and wiping the residue with a tack cloth. <br /><br />I would not use a water based poly over the oil based you have down. If you go that route, strip the finish off, re-stain and then use the water-based one. The are no significant differences between the water based poly's and the oil, and in the Minwax lineup, the oil based poly is more durable. <br /><br />Jeff

I'm sorry, but that information is not available. <br /><br />Jeff

Gymseal had polyurethane in it, so I would think if the floor were properly prepared, yes. The old should be cleaned and re-screened or sanded before applying the new. <br /><br />Jeff

I just don't think you're going to find much out there. Here are the options I can think of. <br /><br />1. Try calling Valspar directly 1-800-345-4530 and see if they have a list of distributors that you can call.<br /><br />2. The Cabot lineup has some matching colors. I found a list here<br /><br />http://www.o-geepaint.com/ArchiCoats/cabot.shtml<br /><br />3. If you have any of the old McCloskey product, you could have it matched. A Sherwin Williams Commercial branch (not the consumer stores) in your Yellow pages should be able to help. <br /><br />4. Homestead Finishing in Cleveland lists some TungSeal quarts left in stock<br /><br />http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/PigmentStains.htm#Tungseal<br /><br />Jeff

Columbia Flooring was purchased by Mohawk Industries (a different company than Columbia Forest Products) last year, so I'm sorry but I can't answer your questions. Contact Information for Mohawk is at their website here:<br /><br />http://www.columbiaflooring.com/home.cfm<br /><br />Regards<br /><br />Jeff

My hunch is that you are seeing the result of wood that's naturally yellowing, which light woods like maple do. Tabu uses dyes in their veneer and since there really isn't a white dye (necessary for a true gray) they use a bluish black on very white wood to get a gray. You may also be seeing a shift in shade of the dye if it's a mix of 2 or more dyes. If one of the dyes is less lightfast, it fades first. At least that's my guess. <br /><br />When the wood substrate yellows, the result of the yellow/blue/black is the drab green you describe. <br /><br />While a UV additive will deter the yellowing you have to use the correct type. This one (Tinuvan 5151) has been proven pretty effective in waterbornes<br /><br />http://www.ciba.com/irgazin_lignostab_1198?pageid=13634&mode=P&prod=1367&attribs=40<br /><br />And a fairly new product that may help long term is a lignin stabilizer<br /><br />http://www.ciba.com/irgazin_lignostab_1198?pageid=13634&mode=P&prod=1367&attribs=40<br /><br />I have personally used the 5151 in a waterborne system to inhibit yellowing on birch samples and it does work. For how long I don't know. I have not personally used the Lignostab<br /><br />Unfortunately just dumping this stuff in the veneer and finish may work or it may not. You'll have to test these products by application on your specific veneer and then having an accelerated UV exposure test done. I would contact CIBA directly on this matter. They may have resources to help you out in getting samples and testing labs. Be prepared to spend some money for testing - it is not cheap. Contact information is available on the links I embedded above. <br /><br />Jeff

Acrylate is a "family" of resins based upon the same general chemistry as the acrylics used in waterborne finishes, lucite and Plexiglas, to name a few. <br />The main environmental inmpact of any finish is in the solvents added to it which then are released to the air during application and drying. Because the finish used by Columbia is applied by a roller coating method at a very high solids (90+ %), there is a very small amount of solvent used. So it's environmental impact is very low. Other than a small amount of solvent that evaporates almost immediately, there is no residual toxic product to worry about when you get the plywood (like formaldehyde off-gassing)<br />There are other issues that come into play when talking about environmental impact; like the processes used to manufacture the resin and other components, whether they come from renewable resourses or such, but this is beyond my pay grade to answer. <br /><br />Generally UV-curing of finishes is recognized as a greener alternative to higher solvent based applications that release solvents into the air and need heat (generated by fossil fuels) to assist in the curing process. There have been several awards given to companies that pioneered the switch to UV curing, most notable of which was an award given to BASF for a UV curable automotive primer in 2005. <br /><br />Jeff

This is something that really has to be taught to you, but there are some good places to start. <br /><br />This is a good start <br /><br />http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/ColorTheory.html<br /><br />Two books that may help you out are my latest - The Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing., and Understanding Wood Finishing. My DVD may also help called Hand Applied Finishes. <br /><br />Instruction is hard to come by but you can try Mitch Kohanek at Dakota:<br /><br />http://www.woodfinishing.org/<br /><br />They have shorter Summer Workshops that will probably help. <br /><br />Jeff

The finish used is called a UV cured acrylate. It is not "baked" on, but rather it's exposed to ultraviolet light which causes the finish to cure (harden). It is much more solvent resistant than a lacquer or oil based urethane. <br />I ran this scenario past the technical lab guys that make the finish and they say it should not be a problem with your shelf paper. <br /><br />Jeff

Yes. Sand the finish with 240 or 280 grit sandpaper. Wipe the residue from sanding with water and a cloth. Then prime using a product called Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 primer. Follow that with a high quality 100% acrylic paint like Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo or Sherwin Williams ProClassic. Whatever you do do not use a latex wall paint - it won't hold up to your use. <br /><br />Jeff

Quite honestly, I don't know the answer. Kilz would seal the oil problem, but shellac gets soft at a fairly low temp of 150 d F, so I do not know if it's appropriate. It certainly isn't going to interfere with anything I can think of so I would say it's OK. You may want to run this past the radiant heting manufacturer as well. <br /><br />Jeff

You can get it finished 1 side from your distributor. <br /><br />Jeff

There are all sorts of products out there for floors, but it sounds like a couple of things are going on. <br /><br />1. You may have used either a urethane not intended for floors, or it just wasn't tough enough. <br />2. You may not have applied enough coats. <br /><br />You have a rather high wear requirement due to the dogs and such. The best waterborne urethanes are made by this company here:<br /><br />http://www.bona.com/en/US/Country_Start_page/<br /><br />I suggest you look at one of their high-traffic products and apply a minumum of 2 coats, possibly 3. You will have to prepare the old surface properly which includes cleaning and possible sanding, but Bona should provide assistance. <br /><br />Jeff

A good durable finish should be expected from a product called Waterlox. www.waterlox.com<br />Teak can pose drying issues with oil based finishes so I would use sealer coat of shellac called Sealcoat www.zinsser.com prior to the Waterlox application. <br /><br />Jeff

Yes you can paint them but you need to sand the surface first with 220 grit sandpaper. Remove the residue with a damp cloth and then paint. <br /><br />Jeff

Generally products such as the one in this link<br /><br />http://www.howardproducts.com/restora.htm<br /><br />work fine. Be careful when you use the product and I would test it on a small area first. At the very least it should improve the look quite a bit. <br /><br />Jeff

The plywood itself is LEED certified. As for the coating applied to it, the LEED certification is not determinable at this time. The coatings manufacturer and Columbia are working on this aspect and I do not have a definite answer. Unfortunately that's the best I can do for you at the present time. <br /><br />Jeff

It is not a waterborne, but rather a very high solids, near zero VOC (less than .1 lbs per gallon) that's roll coated onto the plywood and cured by UV. It is formaldehyde free. As fas as I know it is HAPS free or close to it. <br /><br />Jeff

I'm not sure if you are looking for an answer to the subject - "burn-in finishing", or "gun-in finishing". The latter may be a typo, but here goes. <br /><br />1. "Burn-in" refers to a type of topcoat that partially or fully melts "burns" into it's prior coat. Whether you apply 2 or 20 coats, the result is one homogenous thickness of finish, rather than many layers. Two types of finishes that do this are nitrocellulose lacquer and shellac. Finishes that do not burn in are polyurethane and many performance finishes such as conversion varnish. <br /><br />2. "Gun-in" is not a term I have come across or am aware of. Spray guns are used to apply finishes like lacquers quickly and efficiently, so that may be what you are looking for. <br /><br />Jeff

If it is finished you cannot darken it very much by applying a dark stain or oil over it. I would suggest stripping it and then re-staining.<br /><br />However, be very careful. Many Danish Import finishes can be tough to strip completetly and sanding is required to remove the finish enough for staining. It is very easy to sand through the veneer as it is very thin. <br /><br />My suggestion would be to have a professional look at it and give you a quote. <br /><br />Jeff

The finishing product that's used is an industrial product that's not available to the public or shops because it's manufactured for roll coating operations. It's hard to say exactly what to do at this point if neither of the finishes I mentioned come close. It may be that the other side is a different species. So I'd need to know more information. <br /><br />1. Exactly what product did you get?<br />2. Was this a mistake by the distributor?<br />3. Where did you buy the product? <br /><br />If what you are seeing is a lack of yellow, and it needs to be darker then I would add a very small amount of yellow oxide pigment to one of the GF products. The dealer that you got the plywood from may be able to assist you if they also carry finishing products. An alternative method is to use a very dilute yellow/brown dye and stain the wood first, let dry and then apply one of the finishes. <br /><br />If the other side is a different species of wood or was a different slicing method, it may not finish exactly the same, even if you were to use the original finish. <br /><br />Jeff

I have referred your question to Columbia Customer Service. In case no one gets back to you, here are the numbers:<br /><br />Eastern US | 800.237.2428 <br />Western US/Canada | 800.547.1791 <br />Northeast US/Canada | 888.664.1964 <br />Central US | 800.760.3341 <br /><br /><br />Jeff

It depends on if a sealer was used and whether the poly was thinned and if so, how much. If the poly was used straight from the can with no sealer then I would say 1 coat would look like a very natural, "in the wood" look. As you go to 2-3 coats you can definitely see a thickness of finish on top of the wood.<br /><br />What you could also do is buy some of the poly and using the same wood and same sheen of poly, apply 1, 2 and 3 coats and compare. <br /><br />If this a dispute that will eventually get to legal proceedings then you would have to hire a firm to perform a "dry film thickness" test that requires the use of some fairly expensive measuring equipment. You may have to extract a piece of the wood in question and get it to them. Let me know if it gets to this point and I can possibly refer you to a testing company. <br /><br />Jeff

As far as I know, there is no recommended low voc paint for the plywood. Warpage could be caused by a number of factors. With doors I would makes sure primer/paint is applied to both sides. Priming one side without doing the other side fairly quickly may also do it. <br />You don't mention the ply thickness, but would might want to try the following if the problem continues. <br /><br />Use a shellac based primer like Kilz or Bin. This isn't low VOC, but alcohol isn't a terrible solvent to work with and certainly isn't nasty when it off-gasses.<br /><br />I will need some more information:<br /><br />What grade are you using?<br /><br />Are you priming these before installing them? <br /><br />Jeff

There isn't a whole lot you can do about the sunlight. The finish that's on the table now (I'm assuming it's got a finish - right??), should protect from food and wine, however you could give it a coat of paste wax if it doesn't have much finish on it. Most Teak has a very natural looking "in the wood" finish which is a lacquer. <br />The sunlight is the biggest problem. Normal ambient (not direct) will slowly turn the brownish teak an orangey color which most people don't object to. Strong sunlight will bleach it and make it a lighter yellowy-brown which people usually do object to. I'd suggest some sort of UV blocking filters on your windows which will certainly help. <br /><br />Jeff

You can do it either way, but you'll get better results if you seal it first. I use one application of shellac for the sealer when doing a "wax" finish. <br /><br />Jeff

I don't have any data on toning the plywood, so you should probably do a test run on scrap and then an adhesion test which is outlined in my latest book, The Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing. <br /><br />I would dry sand the surface with 400 grit, then wipe the residue with denatured alcohol. Then apply a wet coat of dewaxed shellac. Then you can put the TransTint/dewaxed shellac mix or the tinted waterborne over that once it's dry. <br />I'm afraid that if you tone with the tinted waterborne directly on the UV coating it won't stick, but you could try an adhesion test with it and see. Topcoat the toner with clear to lock down the color. <br /><br />Jeff

1. You can use a solvent (lacquer thinner based) CAB acrylic or water clear Conversion Varnish if you are a pro. If not most waterborne finishes will provide a good match. Minwax Polycrylic or General Finishes High Performance Polyurethane are 2 brands that work. I favor the General Finishes product as it brushes better. <br /><br />2. If the scratch is deep, Mohawks Pre-cat aerosols as well as the Konig line of touch up products will work pretty well. Use the product that's recommended for catalyzed varnish, and make sure it is a non-yellowing resin (like acrylic) so it ages the same as the original coating.<br /><br />http://www.cdgkonig.com/<br /><br />http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/<br /><br />If the scratches are superficial, you can try polishing them out with a product made by Mirka Abrasives called Abralon. This is used with a random orbit sander or by hand and is available in very fine grits of 1000, 2000, or 4000. <br />In a pinch some finishers have reported back that paste wax will also work. Some use the wax with 0000 steel wool. This technique has the added advantage of making the finish silky smooth. <br /><br />3. If you mean voids in the inner core material visible on the edges, typically you cover the edges with a product called "edge-banding". These are available in real wood species from just about any place that sells plywood. It is heat applied with a househol iron and will look much better than putty or patching material. It finishes just like real wood. <br /><br />Jeff<br /><br />

I hate to tell you this but you have a problem that's probably not easily repaired. There are 2 possible problems depending on whether the top is solid wood or veneer. I'll start with the worst scenario. <br /><br />1. If the top is veneered, you may have actually sanded through the teak and into the core material. It may be hard to tell, but see if the grain or texture of the wood is distinctly different in the area you sanded. If so, the top is more or less ruined and you'll have to call a professional in to see if he can salvage it and at what expense. <br /><br />2. If the wood grain is still apparent, either the top is solid wood or you haven't sanded all the way through the veneer. All you've done is sanded away the lighter yellow/orange surface patination.<br /><br />Now - the scolding. You should never sand away a defect in a top. This may not only cause worse problems, but it results in a low spot that is visible, particularly if you apply more finish. <br /><br />If you want to try and just get out of the jam and repair this yourself,the only thing I can suggest is to cover it up using the touch up crayons and markers commonly available. Bleach will possibly make the area lighter (if you've sanded through to the core material it will have minimal effect), but it will be hard to control and might possibly make a worse mess. If you do want to use a bleach, make sure you use a 2 part (also called A/B bleach)<br /><br />My advice is to either do the best you can with the touch up crayons or call a pro. Hopefully it's solid wood, and all they will have to do is abrade it flat again, then bleach it with a 2 part bleach and re-color to match the existing patina. <br /><br />Jeff

Any change in the way a veneer is prepared or layed up can affect staining or finishing outcomes. In other woods, anything that changes the texture or absorbtion of stain will affect the stain. Typically a wiping type stain will show the most difference, while a spray, no-wipe will show the least. So experimentation is always advised. <br /><br />Jeff

<br />Not really. Most stains will accentuate the contrast. The only one that doesn't do it as much is a water soluble dye powder made into a stain. <br />I suggest you look for an alternative wood like birch or maple if you wish to avoid grain contrast. <br /><br />Jeff

You can clean your furniture with a proprietary "Teak" or furniture cleaner, however plain old mineral spirits will work if you have some on hand. After cleaning, I usually wipe with a lightly warm water dampened cloth to remove any water soluble dirt (most dirt is mineral spirits soluble). <br /><br />The easiest thing to apply after that is a furniture paste wax. I would get a brown or darker colored one for the teak. You could also apply a wipe on oil based finish for more protection and deeper luster. Seal A Cell (www.generalfinishes.com) is one brand. <br /><br />Jeff

I think that should match pretty closely. Always test a piece first. <br />However - even when using the same finish on maple solid and maple ply, you might see some color differences. You can usually compensate for this by adding a few drops of a liquid dye like TransTint Medium Brown to finish if the solid comes up lighter. <br /><br />Jeff

Both techniques work well, as long as you can pre-test on some scraps. Generally though, oil based wiping stains work with the pre-mixed controllers and are faster. Water based stains should be used with the thinned sealer/pre-mixed product that are allowed to dry and then sanded. <br /><br />Jeff

Call the numbers below for dealers in your area. <br /><br /><br />800.237.2428 | U.S. East <br />800.547.1791 | U.S. West <br />450.437.1964 | Canada <br />800.808.9080 | Imports <br />

It is some sort of stain, but I really think your friend has the sequence wrong. Typically the phrase "sprayed it black, then wiped off the excess leaving it in the grain" refers to a technique called glazing which would be done after the cherry stain and sealer. The sealer allows the black to only stay in the grain which is what's implied in your question. <br /><br />Black glazes are not common finishing materials, but you can get it from the source below<br /><br />http://woodfinishersdepot.com/index.php/cPath/40?osCsid=165a348a8d1419090b3793bc8af1212b<br /><br />Make sure you order the right glaze to use with your topcoat. So the sequence is:<br /><br />1. Apply cherry stain<br />2. Apply a sealer, sand with 320 grit when dry<br />3. Apply your black glaze over the entire surface, wipe off before it starts to dry. <br />4. Apply clear topcoats to protect the glaze. <br /><br />The effect of black glaze applied in this manner can be seen here:<br /><br />http://www.kraftmaid.com/doorsfinishes/index.cfm?navigationid=335X0&finishid=44<br /><br />The first stain you use determines the background color. The effect is most dramatic when it's a light color. The darker the color is, the less dramatic the black glaze will be. <br /><br />Jeff

I am sorry you are experiencing difficulty, but your best bet is to pursue your complaint with Home Depot as I am confident they have some type of process for dealing with product performance. Our Ask the Expert page on our site is actually set up to handle technical questions rather than to resolve product issues, so in that vein I can tell you that, although I can't be sure without actually examining the product, what you are describing sounds like there may be voids under the face that could be creating the "soft" spots, and these indeed would take stain differently. There are grade standards for the core options for decorative panel products, but these do allow for small holes up to 1" in diameter. Hope this helps a little.<br /> <br />Ang

Flooring adhesive that has cured is one of the most tenacious glues in the industry and is extremely difficult to remove. It is not something that I could advise a homeowner to tackle. <br /><br />Get a hold of the glue manufacturer and see what they recommend. Solvents generally do not work, or ones that may work will damage the finish. Usually mechanical removal like scraping is the only option and this may damage the finish. You might have to replace the affected boards.<br /><br />Either way, my advice is to find another installer in your area and see if they can help you out. <br /><br />Jeff

As a reactive coating, the UV finished panels do not touch up as easily as single component nitrocellulose lacquers and pre-cats. There is no ``burn-in`` of new to old finish. However, most repair folks who run into catalyzed and urethane finishes can do a manageable job. <br /><br />If the scratch is deep, Mohawks Pre-cat aerosols as well as the Konig line of touch up products will work pretty well. Use the product that's recommended for catalyzed varnish, and make sure it is a non-yellowing resin (like acrylic) so it ages the same as the original coating.<br /><br />http://www.cdgkonig.com/<br /><br />http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/<br /><br />If the scratches are superficial, you can try polishing them out with a product made by Mirka Abrasives called Abralon. This is used with a random orbit sander or by hand and is available in very fine grits of 1000, 2000, or 4000. <br />In a pinch some finishers have reported back that paste wax will also work. Some use the wax with 0000 steel wool. This technique has the added advantage of making the finish silky smooth. <br /><br /><br />Jeff Jewitt<br />

The care and maintenance schedule would depend on the finish you used. Generally, cabinet grade finishes need only dusting and light cleaning with a damp cloth or sponge. Stubborn spots can be removed with water and a little Dawn. Avoid strong cleaners like Windex or Formula 409. <br /><br />You might want to check with the finish manufacturer as schedules may vary a bit depending on the finish used. <br /><br />Jeff

You need an exterior grade plywood and an exterior paint for best results. If you're after a clear finish use a marine/spar varnish. <br /><br />There isn't a pre-finished product that I would recommend, but you might run this past Ang at the other forum to see if I am mistaken. I don't know exactly which exterior grade plywood you want as I am familiar primarily with the interior lineup. <br /><br />Jeff

Propylene glycol can be purchased from on-line sellers of supplies and folks who like to make cosmetics and other things at home. An Internet search will pull up information. <br /><br />I don't know of much covered in the way of large projects, but the best 2 books out there are Flexners Understanding Wood Finishing and my book, The Complete Guide to Finishing. You can peruse them at a local library or book store to see if there is the info you're after.

I am not the right person for this as I don't do appraisals. Best thing for you to do is call around your area and see if an auction house or antique store will be able to give you an estimate on the value and workmanship.

There are many products which can be applied quickly and without wiping once you perfect the techniques. Either water based powders or liquid concentrates can be used. If you need to slow down the evaporation rate you can add up to 20% propylene glycol. <br /><br />Jeff

As a reactive coating, the UV finished panels do not touch up as easily as single component nitrocellulose lacquers and pre-cats. There is no ``burn-in`` of new to old finish. However, most repair folks who run into catalyzed and urethane finishes can do a manageable job. <br /><br />If the scratch is deep, Mohawks Pre-cat aerosols as well as the Konig line of touch up products will work pretty well. Use the product that's recommended for catalyzed varnish, and make sure it is a non-yellowing resin (like acrylic) so it ages the same as the original coating.<br /><br />http://www.cdgkonig.com/<br /><br />http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/<br /><br />If the scratches are superficial, you can try polishing them out with a product made by Mirka Abrasives called Abralon. This is used with a random orbit sander or by hand and is available in very fine grits of 1000, 2000, or 4000. <br />In a pinch some finishers have reported back that paste wax will also work. Some use the wax with 0000 steel wool. This technique has the added advantage of making the finish silky smooth. <br /><br /><br />Jeff Jewitt<br />

While long term testing for this specific type of use has not been done, I would be confident in saying that there should be no long term problems with using the plywood for your purpose. The fully cured finish has no reactivity (reactive chemical sites or functional groups) and is pH neutral. The finish has excellent stain resistance and deterioration of the coating over time should not result in any changes to the chemical or physical properties. In fact this coating is used extensively in the graphic arts business, one use being as a "varnish" for printed posters and graphic media. <br /><br />Jeff

The advise you got would be exactly what I would say. What probably is going on is that you did not remove/clean enough of the stain and stain controller product to expose bare wood which is why the stain is not taking (this is what I think you mean by adhering) to the wood. <br />Because of your time frame, I strongly urge you to get a pro in to look at this. As a consumer, there just aren't that many products available to solve your problem and get you a great looking finish. Plus, are these new cabinets?, Old and stripped? <br /><br />If you want to proceed, you have 2 options:<br /><br />1. Paint (probably the fastest) <br /><br />2. Clean with steel wool and lacquer thinner and then sand the wood clean until water will absorb when you apply it to the wood. Let dry and then try a gel stain which will probably stain a little more evenly and eliminate the need for the stain controller (try this on your test piece). If the gel stain doesn't stain as evenly as you want, then apply a stain controller made by diluting a product called Zinsser SealCoat to a 1 pound cut. Let that dry and then try the gel stain. If that works OK, then let everything dry and then go onto clear topcoats.

Columbia does not have a recommended stain. You can use any stain you like. Wiping stains may stain birch unevenly, so you may want to test on a small sample prior to staining your project. Stain controllers are available from most stain manufacturers to help even out the staining. Minwax is one example and they have a different stain controller for waterbased stain than for oil based. So make sure you get the right one and follow the directions on the can. <br /><br />Jeff

Most fillers do not take a stain, unless they are specifically sold as "stainable". <br />However even stainable filler may not take the stain exactly the same as the wood around it. <br />The best procedure if you have stain that won't take on filler is to try applying some of the stain directly to the area with a small artist's brush. Make sure you let it dry before applying a clear finish. <br /><br />Jeff

If you feel confident in doing this yourself, you probably won't find a stock product to do the staining part. You will have to mix this yourself using universal tint colorants (Mixol is one brand) and some clear finish. Once you get the stain on you have to protect it with a clear coat matching the existing sheen. This company sells the products you need at their retail stores and the staff may be able to assist you. <br /><br />www.woodcraft.com<br /><br />If you aren't confident in mixing colors, then I would have a professional come in and quote. It's rare that they will suggest a total re-strip and they have access to better products. These are 2 companies that specialize in on-site repair services:<br /><br />http://www.guardsman.com/<br /><br />http://www.furnituremedic.com/<br /><br />Jeff

Assuming you do not want to strip it, there's really only one avenue to try and see if it brings it back. Howards Products makes a restoring product called "Restor A Finish" <br /><br />http://www.howardproducts.com/restora.htm<br /><br />This product is avaialable just about anywhere and is sold in different colors that will put back color and luster, both of which get faded from the sun. I'd also advise moving the piece if you can. <br /><br />Jeff<br /><br />

The toughest finish a consumer can apply by hand is polyurethane. <br /><br />1. Oil based products will probably look the best, as they bring out the warmth of the wood. <br /><br />2. Water based products will dry faster, have lower odor and will keep the wood looking the way it does when sanded. <br /><br />My personal recommendation would be oil based. If you want to use water based, use a sealer coat of dewaxed blonde or pale shellac (Zinsser Sealcoat) to bring up the warmth of the wood. <br /><br />Jeff

Any finish that's sold as a consumer product is safe enough for contact with the food or mouth. I would suggest oil based polyurethane. <br /><br />Most woodworkers use natural finishes like walnut oil, mineral oil, beeswax or shellac, which are certainly safe, but they aren't as durable. <br /><br />

This product here will remove dried glue<br /><br />http://de-gluegoo.com/<br /><br />Once you think you've got it off, wipe the entire surface down with water. The water won't penetarte any residual glue and will show as a spot. Once it looks good, sand it with 220 and finish. <br /><br />Jeff

As a homeowner, you can't easily change the color. Modern cabinets use high tech finishes that are very difficult to re-coat once they're cured. <br />If you are dead set on correcting this problem I suggest you contact a professional finisher in your area to discuss the options.

I hope I understand the last part of your question as what is in the finish? <br /><br />The finishes that are applied to Columbia flooring are commercial finishes that aren't anything like what you can get in a store. Generally they are urethane based, and fortified with aluminum oxide for greater wearability. These finishes are applied by large automated machines, but if you were to translate into "coats", it would be around 3 coats applied by hand.

I assume by "bad" you mean they stained unevenly. Alder like some other woods will stain unevenly. This effect is mitigated by the use of a stain controller. More on that in a second. <br /><br />You need to remove as much of the stain as possible by using a paint stripped or scrubbing as much of it off with lacquer thinner and Scotchbrite. Work safely by doing this outdoors in shade. Once it has dried, sand with 120, going up to 220 using grits of 150 and 180. <br /><br />Check out the stains that are sold with a companion product called stain controller or stain conditioner. Minwax has it as does Varathane. Apply the conditioner per the instructions, wait the required time and then apply the stain. Using a stain controller usually results in a lighter appearance to the stain. Try to test the stain sequence in an unseen area first. <br /><br />Jeff

Yes - stripping and refinishing is tedious work. You can make the wood a little darker, but not a lot. Here's an easy way to test. <br />Go buy the darkest oil based gel stain you can find. Make sure it's a gel and not a liquid. Find an inconspicuous spot and clean the area with mineral spirits first. Sand it with 240 grit sandpaper or maroon grade Scotchbrite. Wipe the gel stain on and see if it is dark enough for you. If so, then continue on with the rest of the job and when the stain has dried, top it with a polyurethane. <br /><br />If it doesn't look dark enough to you, then you will have to strip and refinish for the best look. <br /><br />Jeff

Yes it's more expensive to do non-flat stripping. However you may want to get a second opinion as I think the stripping and staining is a good way to go wi9th all oak. <br />Oak doesn't paint very well as it will telegraph the open grain under the paint. Personally I like the idea of painted wood, but unless the oak is painted correctly and the grain filled, it may not look right. <br />Close grained woods like maple, poplar and pine take a paint much better. <br /><br />Jeff

Sorry if I wasn't very clear about the finish that Columbia uses in my prior post. The reason it is not available is because it is a UV cured epoxy/acrylate finish which is way beyond the capabilities of any shop (it requires UV lamps to cure). If you use a water white conversion varnish, or CAB-acrylic finish, you should get a very close match. These are professional finishes. If you do not have access to these type of finishes, a waterborne polyurethane should be reasonably close.

You can use a heat applied edgebanding or glue solid wood to it. Just be careful during the construction process that you don't scratch it with metal objects like clamps, and make sure your machinery is free of burrs or sharp edges. I like to apply paste wax to the machine surfaces when I'm working with the product to alleviate mishaps. Your dealer can provide more specific instructions on these procedures. <br />You can touch up problems with a clear, non-yellowing pre-cat or conversion varnish, but to be honest there really isn't anything close to the finish chemicaly that's easily available. Mohawk <br /><br />http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=439<br /><br />has an aresol pre-cat that works pretty well.

Any rustic wood (like knotty alder, cherry and pine) will blotch. I'm not familiar with Columbia stain controller, but it sounds like a typical oil based stain controller that's applied liberally, allowed to dwell 15 minutes, wiped off, then the stain applied? If so you might have a little better luck with letting the controller dry completely, then applying the gel the next day. You might also try using dewaxed 1 pound cut shellac as a controller. Either way - practice on some samples, which will save you the aggravation of having to tear off the casing and a redo. <br />As to the white lines, I can't put a finger on this without a photo. If they are small, take an artists brush like a #4 and some of the stain and apply it over the white lines to mask it out. Make sure the stain dries before topcoating.

Some species of maple will splotch. The general rule is that the soft maples will exhibit this more than the hard maples. All plywood usesd soft maple, so it's likely that it should stain unevenly. <br />To avoid this, the cabinetmaker/finisher should have used Minwax stain controller or something equivalent to mitigate the splotching. Unless he can get the wood back to it's unstained condition, it probably won't look all that better if he restains it as you state.

General maintenance information on flooring can be fopund at the website here:<br /><br />http://www.columbiaflooring.com/products/technical/hardwood/maintainhardwood.php<br /><br />You can download specific instructions for the product you have here:<br /><br />http://www.columbiaflooring.com/products/technical/index.php<br /><br />Generally you want to avoid polishes, waxes, cleaners and mopping with water. Your Columbia dealer can recommend specific products for cleaning.

I doubt it, at least not in the way that glaze should be properly applied. <br />What you possibly could do is to rub some black/brown wax in the crevices and see if that looks good to you. It won't stay forever, but it is certainly far easier than a proper glazing. <br /><br />To glaze properly, the entire finish would be scuff sanded with very fine sandpaper, the glaze applied, wipe off, and then a clear finish which locks down the glaze and protects it.

Exotics sometimes do baffling things on mdf. The cuase could either be finish delamination as you say, or it could be overall panel stability that's causing the delamination or crazing. With high performance finish like the CV's, 2K's etc, special sealers are recommended for exotics. Review the issue with your finish supplier and see if a sealer is recommended in this case. <br />I am always leery of exotics in veneering. Many times problems like this can be eliminated by making a more stable panel. Use cross-banding under the wenge.

I have never heard of the term "ticking" or "black ticking". Can you elaborate. Also describe your finishing process, including surface preparation and the products you use. <br /><br />Jeff

Some maple species are prone to splotching. When a wood splotches, it is more pronounced with darker stains so you might be OK with your color choice. However, if you want to play it safe, use Minwax stain controller first. The only problem with this technique is that it will produce a lighter color so practice on your samples first. <br /><br />Minwax is perfectly fine for a stain. Just follow the directions and make sure it is dry before applying a protective topcoat. <br /><br />Jeff

With current manufacturing techniques and the products used to make kitchen cabinets, I don't think the average handy-oriented homeowner can do much to dramatically change the color of existing cabinets. Paint is the best option to change color, but that doesn't sound like it's the direction you want to go. <br /><br />To stain something you need to get the stain into the bare wood, and it's a lot of work to strip your cabinets, assuming you can even do it. If this is the direction you want to go, you may want to consult a pro in your area first. If you still want to venture forth, I would urge you to try and find out who made the cabinets and finished them. If they are commercial cabinets made by Kraftmaid or one of the big manufacturers, forget about stripping them yourself. You will not be able to budge their finishes. If they were finished locally, try and find out if lacquer was used. If so this is a finish you can remove with a paste type stripper. <br /><br />To strip the cabinets, remove all the hardware and apply the stripper and remove the finish. Clean them afterward with a wash or cleaner specified. Then you should be able to re stain them and then apply a clear finish. <br /><br />Jeff<br />

Please contact Columbia Flooring at <br />800.654.8796<br /><br />Jeff

There could be some discoloration on the core material. However, if you can see it, it usually means that the face veneer was sanded too much. <br /><br />If you could give me a little more information on what grit sandpaper was used, the progression of grits used and the machines (if any) you used that would help me out. However, you state that you sanded, applied a stain, then sanded again. Typically stains are not sanded as it would remove the stain color. Did you use a water basaed stain or something that raised the grain? <br /><br />Jeff

Depends - as there are different types of "Tung Oil".<br /><br />1. Pure, 100% Tung oil can only be put over a water based dye stain that contains no binder. Powdered or liquid dye concentrates that you mix yourself fall into this category. <br /><br />2. Tung Oil Finish - or what is really a wiping varnish, can be put over any water based stain, whether it is something you make yourself, or buy in a can, ready to use. <br /><br />Jeff

For detailed specs or something in writing on the finish specifications, please call Columbia at 800-237-2428.<br /><br />What I can tell you is that the product applied is not water-based, but it is extemely low in solvent at the time of application, which is why it is UV cured. The product should be expected to be zero-very low in off-gassing by the time you recieve it, especially when compared to a traditional cabinet finish. <br /><br />Keep in mind that not all waterborne finishes are "green" and not all green finishes are waterborne. <br /><br />Jeff

Mild soap (I like Dawn) and water should clean most soiling from sealed wooden surfaces (it should have a finish). I use a capful per pint water. Stubborn soiling (the one that comes immediately to mind is tobacco smoke) is very tough to remove and may require the use of solvent cleaners. You might also try vinegar and water if there is soiling that the Dawn does not remove. If nothing seems to be working, contact a local ServiceMaster or finisher/refinisher and see if they can help. <br /><br />Oil based soaps like Murphy's aren't bad to use, but use it sparingly as it leaves a residue behind that attracts dirt. <br /><br />Here is the general sequence:<br /><br />1. Vacuum or dry dust all the paneling to remove dust and loose dirt. <br />2. Test an inconspicuous area with the water/soap or solvent first. Examine the cloth to see if dirt is being removed. Do not let the cleaner sit on the surface too long and wipe the residue off with a clean cloth as soon as possible. <br />3. When done dry rag the surface with a clean cloth. <br /><br />

An NGR stain is a non-grain raising stain that's generally formulated using dye colorants in a lacquer thinner type solvent. <br />For alder you typically use a stain controller or that will work with your stain. If you use a or oil based stain, the manufacturer has a stain controller for it (like Minwax). If you use a, which is essentially thinned finish, you can generally use lacquer sanding sealer with oil based wiping stains. <br /><br />Jeff

I don't think the cedar will fade dramatically in an interior exposure. But more to the point, you would have to apply too many coats of a UV finish to have any effect on blocking damage from light. That will certainly stop the aroma. <br />My advice is to leave it unfinished if you want the aroma. <br /><br />Jeff

You can spray any stain to apply it, but some stains MUST be wiped afterwards. Anything that's labeled "wiping stain" should be wiped. These include all consumer brand stains and some industrial stains. The reason is that the binder used in these stains impairs adhesion if built up as a film. <br /><br />There are some stains that do not have to be wiped. These are called NGR stains or "no-wipe" stains. These type generally are dye based or micronized pigment and do not contain a binder. <br /><br />So to answer your question, you can always spray any stain to speed up the application part of the process, but read the container instructions or tech sheet to see if it must be wiped afterwards. <br /><br />Jeff

Correct me if I'm wrong but I think what you mean is how to correct the problem - right? <br /><br />When the finish or stain is peeling, it means that the finish has failed and the only remedy is to remove the finish and re-apply it. Certain finishes might be repairable without stripping, but these would be finishes that I wouldn't put on cabinets in the first place (like nitrocellulose lacquer). You may experience this issue more in areas such as around the sink or dishwasher where there is heat and water vapor(steam). In fact one of the testing protocols devised by the Kitchen Cabinet Makers Association is a wet edge test, which simulates this. <br />Properly finished kitchen cabinets should not have the stain peeling off for the warranty period specified by the manufacturer. <br /><br />jeff

Golden oak isn't a very dark color. I suggest using no stain, just a clear finish. To see what the wood will look like with a clear finish, wipe the sanded wood with mineral spirits. The color you see is the color you get when you apply a clear finish. <br />Some finishes add little color, others may add amber. Generally, water based finishes like Minwax Polycrylic add no color, while the oil based polyurethanes add a bit of amber.<br /><br />Jeff

If you sand through an area and it's not too large, you could try "painting in" the missing area with some of the original stain and a small artists brush like a #2 or #4. If the area is larger than a dime or is in a really conspicuous area, you may be better served by starting over, rather than trying to touch it up. Touching up large areas requires skill and practice.

I have referred you to the Plywood section where I believe Ang will answer your question.

You are going to spend a lot of time on this finish because you are doing it on the wrong wood. Ideally, you should do this type of perfectly smooth finish on a denser wood like maple. Regardless - this is how you proceed. <br /><br />1. Apply a primer to fill the open grain and provide a smooth surface for the paint. Ideally it should be close to the color of the paint. For example, don't use white primer for black paint. Also make sure it is an easy-to-sand primer. You apply one full wet coat of the primer, let dry, and then do any repair work of open joints, splits, cracks, dents etc. Don't worry about the open grain at this point. Since I typically use waterborne products, I use a latex wood filler. <br />2. Keep applying the primer, until the wood is perfectly smooth after you sand it. (no grain visible)<br />3. Apply 2-3 coats of your paint color. Sand between only if directed by the manufacturer or if you have minor defects. <br />4. Apply 6-10 coats of clear gloss lacquer over the paint. Typically I apply 2-3 per day and sand between the day's applications. Let dry 2 weeks. <br />5. Starting with 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper, sand the clear finish smooth and flat. Then sand with 1000, then 1200, then 1500. <br />6. Starting with a Compounding paste, apply the paste by hand or with a buffer until all the wet-sanding marks are gone. <br />7. Switch to a polishing paste and buff up to gloss. For a wet gloss show-room shine, follow the polish with a glaze. <br /><br />Good compounding/polishing pastes can be found at an automotive store that sells paint and lacquer. You can also use automotive products for this finish and follow the same procedure. These products are solvent based but you have an incredible array of paints and special effect paints to choose from.

You can use mineral spirits or odorless mineral spirits if you are brushing. Odorless will give you a longer open time to work the finish. <br />Use VM&P Naphtha to thin it if you are spraying. The faster eveaportaion rate of Naphtha keeps it from sagging/running on vertical surfaces. <br /><br />Jeff

I assume you mean maple plywood, which is difficult to stain. When using a wipe on stain, it's advisable to use a wash-coat or stain controller prior to using the stain. Stain controllers are typically available from the stain manufacturer. Wash-coats are thinned finishes applied with a spray gun, allowed to dry, then the piece re-sanded before applying the stain. If time is an issue, it's probably less time-consuming to use a stain controller. <br /><br />The 2 techniques that factories use are:<br /><br />1. Spray a non-wipe stain, particularly if you are after darker colors. One example of these are non-grain-raising products called "NGR" stains. <br />2. Apply a toner, which is simply colored finish or sealer spray applied to the depth of color you want. Toners are typically applied after a light wash/sealer coat.<br /><br />To apply either of these products with a spray gun without wiping requires a trained and skilled spray gun operator. You can get around this somewhat by doing this:<br /><br />1. Spray your NGR stain and allow to dry, Try to avoid wiping (wiping is what causes splotching)<br />2. Apply a washcoat (example would be lacquer sealer cut 2:1 thinner:sealer), let flash, sand with 320 being careful not to cut through (sanding sponges are best)<br />3. Apply an oil based wiping stain to uniform the color and provide richness and depth. let dry. <br />4. Apply your topcoat. <br /><br />Finally - consider having your customers work with a company like ML Campbell that specializes in working with smaller shops and cabinet companies. They have the trained personnel who can demonstrate the techniques and products necessary for producing splotch free finishes. <br /><br />Finally, a great forum for professional woodfinishers to discuss finishing issues is <br /><br />http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/forums/finishing.pl<br /><br />Jeff

I doubt it's mold if it's mostluy confined to the cherry. Cherry has a very high tannin content and what is probably going on is a reaction between this and dissolved iron salts naturally present in the tap water that he wiped it with prior to applying the oil. When this happens to furniture a wood bleach can be used to remove them, but since this productis toxic you can't use it on your board. The only remedy at this point is to sand the black spots off. If you wipe with water again, use distilled water, but it's probably better to just wipe it with denatured alcohol to remove the dust. Then go on to the oil. You may see a re-appearance of the black spots after washing the board. That's why high tannin wood aren't typically used in cutting boards. A wood like maple is much better.

Yes - the Crystalac Exterior is a good finish for your application. It seems reasonably hard, but hardness is a quality that usually isn't built into this type product as it needs to be flexible for the exterior exposure. You can apply multiple coats in 1 day which makes it much faster than using a conventional oil based product. It is waterborne so it's low odor. I have sprayed this finish with fantastic results. <br /><br />You may not get the deepening and "pop" that you get with an oil based finish so be sure to pre-test for your application. Generally, I find that the deepening and pop can be engineered in by one application of an oil based product to the wood prior to the Crystalac. Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish is a good one to use. <br /><br />Jeff

My personal opinion is that any consumer based clear finish should be safe for an infant or child - provided it's dry (usually at least 72 hours). However the specifics of whether the manufacturer wants to state that in writing is something else. One varnish maker I know that has looked at the safety aspect of their oil based finishes for your purpose is Waterlox. You might try contacting them (www.waterlox.com) for more information. <br />Unfortunately I don't know of any stain maker that addresses this issue. However as long as you put on as many coats of the varnish as you say you want to - you should be OK (it means the stain is fully sealed in)<br /><br />One thing I recommend you do is to install teething rails. www.rockler.com or a search for teething rails will bring up plenty of hits. <br /><br />Jeff

Both products function the same - although wash-coating is probably used more in shop finishing because it allows you to wipe the stain after application. I suppose you could say it's glazing but since you use a stain over a washcoat - it's just staining. Over methods include:<br /><br />1. Spraying an NGR stain and avoid wiping. Let dry, apply sanding sealer, then apply an oil stain to even things out and produce depth. Then topcoat. This is good if you are after a high end cherry type look or dark effects. <br /><br />2. Using a water soluble dye stain - as long as it's not too dark a one it shouldn't splotch. The lighter maple, honey or oak effect should work with this.<br /><br />What process you use depends somewhat on the topcoat system you use. For example the solvent lacquer approach is to use a thinned lacquer sanding sealer for the conditioner, sand, apply stain, let dry then apply topcoats. A water based system would be an application of water based conditioner, water based stain, then topcoats. <br /><br />Jeff

Glazing is a finishing technique and you should be able to find products at about any good paint store in this country. Some mega-stores like Home Depot have good sections featuring Ralph Lauren products. You should have a sample if possible to take with you. If not a good photo sometimes works. <br />The effect you are describing is done basically over a painted or stained and sealed wood surface. The glaze is selectively applied in the pewter color you want (the store usually has to tint it to the color you want if there is not a "stock" color) to the profiled areas. Glaze is thick so it "hangs" up in the details - creating the look you want. Glazes must be finished over with at least one coat of clear finish when you are done for protection. <br /><br />Jeff

There are many stains that will have pigments/colors in them that will netralize the red or orange tones on mahhogany. Look for names like Jacobean or Provincial in the name.If you are looking at samples on light woods like pine or oak, look for a color that appears almost greenish.brown or what designers call "cool" browns. <br />Another option is to bleach the natural color out of the wood with a 2 part wood bleach. But that would be my last choice. <br /><br />Jeff

There are many good waterborne finishes that are darn near as tough as solvent based conversion varnishes. The latest issue of Fine Woodworking Magazine has a review of the most popular ones out there. General Finishes High Performance Polyurethane scored very well. <br /><br />Jeff

I can answer your finish question only. For formaldehyde free and low VOC consider a waterborne finish or a low voc solvent based finish from the commercial distributor here:<br /><br />http://www.mlcampbell.com/pages/locate.asp<br /><br />If you are a non-commercial finisher, try<br /><br />Valley Restorations - Ontario, Canada (613) 623-3694<br /><br />To answer your question about a "process" - that's a wide open question depending on whether you are staining and such, but here are the basics. <br /><br />1. Fine sand wood with 180, then 220. With the 220 sand by hand with the grain. Remove all the sawdust and sanding debris. <br />2. Stain if you wish with a wiping stain<br />3. Let dry and then apply 2-3 coats of the finish of your choice. <br /><br />When you talk to the above contacts, they can recommend more specifics about the staining and finish application process depending on which products you get. <br /><br />Jeff<br /><br />

The products that are allowed as Safe for Childrens and Infant Furniture fall under the Consumer Product Safety Comission, and their requirement is simply that the finishes are not hazardous as defined by rules in the Code of Federal Regulations. As far as I know, most consumer clear finishes should be fine for your use, but few actually mention it. I personally would not use tung oil because it is slightly toxic until fully cured which can take a long time. I would look at faster drying shellac or waterborne finishes. One waterborne that I know of which specifically states safe for toys and infant furniture is Crystalac Premium here: http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?sid=382<br /><br />Jeff

If painting is out of the question, the only way to finish the cabinets lighter is to strip and re-finish them in a lighter color. <br />Somehow, I don't think this is what you want to do. Lighter, transparent stains over darker colors don't look right. <br />However - you could try it with a lighter pastel wood stain <br /><br />http://www.minwax.com/products/woodstain/pastels-color.cfm<br /><br />in an inconspicuous place and see if you like it. If you don't, wiping it quickly with mineral spirits should remove most of the color (which is why you should work in an unseen area if possible). <br /><br />If neither of these options appeal to you, you might consider refacing the cabinets. This should be about 1/3 the cost of new cabinets. If you do a web search you'll find plenty of information on kitchen cabinet refacing in your area. <br /><br />Jeff

Standard lacquers - both solvent and waterborne can be applied. Make sure the panel is clean by wiping with a 50/50 mix of water and denatured alcohol. Then fine sand the finish using 600 grit sandpaper. Remove the dust and apply your finish. <br /><br />Jeff

Some folks like the specialized "walnut oils" or salad bowl finishes, but I find them dicey on teak. Teak has natural oils which may inhibit curing of these oils. <br />I think the best treatment is either nothing at all or mineral oil. Mineral oil is cheap, easy to find at any drugstore and only needs to be re-applied when it starts looking dull. <br /><br />Jeff

The factory uses a specialized UV curing finish that's based on acrylic. You should be able to get a similar appearance using water white conversion varnish, CAB-acrylic finishes and many water based finishes. I would use satin or semi-gloss. <br /><br />Jeff

Assuming that the finish is still intact, you can safely and easily restore the luster to your paneling with a cleaner/polish. These are sold under an array of names, but Scott's Liquid Gold should work fine. It's best to test the product on an area first to see if it provides an acceptable appearance. Also - the paneling should be clean before using any polish. Scotts has one to use before the Liquid Gold. If you use another product, see if they have a cleaner to use first. <br /><br />Jeff

The safest stains available as food safe are called FD&C dyes, available as toymakers dyes from Highland hardware here: <br /><br />http://www.highlandwoodworking.com<br /><br />For childrens toys and furniture you do not need the "food-safe" designation. If you go that route you are limiting your choices. The stains and coatings must only be non-hazardous per the CPSC (Consumer Product Safety Comission). Most water based finishes will fit the bill, but one that advertises itself on the can as toy safe is Crystalac Super-Premium. Crystalac also makes a line of stains that might fit your application as suitable for toys. <br /><br />http://www.crystalac.com/

Typically, re-oiling the whole top should restore the lustre and make the spots disappear. Yopu might find using some 0000 steel wool with the oil will eliminate the white rings. If it doesn't work, remove the oil with a clean rag and some mineral spirits and try agin with the product here: <br /><br />http://www.howardproducts.com/restora.htm<br /><br />Jeff<br /><br />

I'm sorry to hear that your having trouble with the flooring. I've forwarded your message and e-mail address to the customer service department at Flooring and someone should be in contact with you.

You can usually restore luster with a polish like teak oil or lemon oil. If it still has a faded appearance, you might try a colored polish from these folks: http://www.howardproducts.com/restora.htm<br /><br />These will be short term solutions. The only long term one is to strip and re-finish the table. And keep it out of sunlight if you can. <br /><br />Jeff

800.237.2428 U.S. East <br /><br />Please contact the above number and somebody can assist you.

I'm not sure what you mean by laminate, but if it's Formica or some other type of non-wood laminate, I suggest replacing it. There is really no way to fix it once it becomes damaged like you say. <br />I think you mean veneer, or a thin wood sheet glued to a substrate. If that is the case, removing the finish with paint/finish stripper should solve the problem with the stain and scratches. You can then fine sand with 220 grit sandpaper and re-finish with a clear finish.

Glazing is done over a sealed surface. To achieve the look you describe, you would first stain the wood the undertone color you want (in this case it sounds like a golden color). Apply one coat of a sealer like shellac or sanding sealer. Let dry and sand the sealer with 320 grit paper. Then apply a black glaze. Glazes are available pre-mixed in black or you can make one yourself using boiled linseed oil and black artists oil colors. Make sure you let the glaze dry before applying a clear protective finish. <br /><br />Jeff

If the ring is white the damage may be on top of the finish or at the bottom

Some woods have been used unfinished for this use, but Teak is not one of them. I'm sure it has to do with cost, but there also may be other reasons not to use teak unfinished. Many exotic woods contain unusual chemicals that may pose problems with food preparation. The typical wood that's used is maple. <br />I would finish/seal it with a food safe finish like linseed oil or walnut oil. You need to re-apply it frequently. <br /><br />Jeff

Look at the Penofin line (www.penofin.com) of penetrating oil stains in the hardwood formula line, which use iron oxides. While very good protection it will need to be re-applied periodically in your situation. <br />They have another product which features more colors, but I'm not sure how suitable it is for teak. The hardwood formula is made for teak and other similar woods. If the teak has weathered to a silvery gray color, there is a bleach specifically made for restoring the color. I'm not sure Penofin sells it, but a good marine supply should be able to get you TEKA teak cleaner which is the type of cleaner/bleach you want for teak.

That's hard to say. Typically these two woods will telegraph their different grain structures with a stain. The biggest difference will be that the rotary cut plywood will have really wild grain definition that's different from the solid wood. It might not be too noticeable if you use a dark stain, but you'll just have to try some stain and see if you like it. You can always paint over the stain if you don't like it. <br /><br />Jeff

That's about the best product that can be easily hand applied. However don't expect a bullet-proof finish with that type of use - expect to re-paint if it starts to look bad. <br /><br />Jeff

I would test first before using a conditioner with black dye. The conditioner may prevent you from getting a dark enough black. Try some samples first withj and without the conditioner. My experience has been that you probably don't need it. <br />If I had a choice plain sliced would probably stain better.

Generally - floor finishes are grouped into water based products and oil (mineral spirit based) products. <br />Traditionally oil based polyurethane has been used to refinish and is good where you want a tough, tried and true finish that has an amber color. It is self sealing (meaning no special sealer is used), however floor finishers do use special sealers that are fast drying. The oil product downsides are long time to dry and the odor of solvents as it is being used and drying. <br />Water based products are also polyurethane but water clear. It has little odor and dries fast. Finishes may use an alcohol based sealer with this product or apply it without a sealer. It depends on the situation. Water based polys are pretty darn close to oil products in terms of durability and the floor finishing industry is using these products more and more every year. <br />Stains are grouped into the above categories. Refinishers will typically stain oak floors, but shy away from maple and pine floor staining becuase those woods will sometimes stain unevenly. <br /><br />Floor finishers will use products they are comfortable with and have experience using. Name brands for oil base are McCloskey (Valspar) and DuraSeal (Minwax). Water based name brands are Bona Kemi and Fuhr. One newer type of poly water based finish for floors has aluminum oxide in it to give it better wearability. The following may help --- <br /><br />http://www.woodfloors.org/consumer/whyFinish.aspx<br /><br />Jeff

An oil finish such as linseed or tung oil will probably deepen the color and change the look of the wood. If there is very little finish or no finish on the wood, an polish based on mineral oil (like a "lemon" oil type product) may also do the same. <br />I'd be careful about what you put on the wood if you like it exactly the way it is. A light paste wax in a natural (avoid the colored waxes) like Antiquax Natural will change the look the least and provide an extra layer of protection against water. It makes it feel nice. <br />Wood really doesn't need to be oiled, fed or nourished in some marketing mumbo jumbo way because it doesn't have a respiratory or digestive system. Keeping the piece out of direct sunlight and a gentle feather dusting is about all that's required other than the paste wax application described above.

First of all I wouldn't use raw linseed oil on anything, you should use boiled linseed oil. <br />I wouldn't recommend using it on teak as the natural antioxidants in teak may make it take a long time to dry. You might experiment on a sample piece if you have one and see if the oil is dry after 1 day. <br />You might want to use a finish called Waterlox Original Sealer and Finish in place of the linseed oil. It's a more durable finish and should dry better. <br /><br />Jeff

It depends on the DuraSeal that you used. If it was the oil based traditional poly, I would expect the Gymseal to be about the same in durability and scratch resistance. The GymSeal will probably be more elastic and won't require stripping if you need to re-coat it (poly usually does). <br /><br />Jeff

Use a natural (no color) or semi-transparent deck stain. The colored ones will typically last longer becuase they contain a very effective UV repelling pigment.<br />Expect to re-apply this type of finish every 1-2 years. <br />Penofin has a good line of products if they are available in your area.

Grain filling is only required on open grained woods (oak, ash, walnut, mahogany, etc.) On semi-open and close grained woods, the finish usually fills the small pores enough. <br /><br />It's required when you want a smooth surface or to achieve certain aesthetic effects, otherwise it is NOT mandatory. <br /><br />An example of the first requirement would be a desk top made from oak. If you didn't fill the grain someone writing on the surface may have a problem as the pen or pencil would follow the grain (unless you used a writing pad)<br /><br />An example of the second requirement would be a very high gloss finish such as that found on a piano or a dining table. If you have unfilled pores, it disrupts the gloss of the finish and prevents that smooth, mirror finish. <br /><br />Filling grain is done with a product called paste wood filler or grain filler. There are water based and oil based versions. The filler is applied to the wood, then the excess scraped off before it has time to dry, thus packing it into the grain. After drying, the excess is removed with a cloth (oil based), or sanding (water based). <br /><br /><br /><br />Jeff

I'm not familiar with the Chinese ash variety, but domestic ash typically isn't used for outdoor applications. It's lack of tannin makes it prone to decay and insect attack. <br /><br />It is a hardwood though. <br /><br />You might want to run this question past Ang on the Plywood forum as he is better than I with some of the less common wood species.

I would recommend you go to a good paint store and ask then for a special primer that will act as a tie coat between the Formica and the paint you choose. There are several made. Typically these primers can be used on the other parts (wood). <br /><br />The wood and Formica must be cleaned with a wood cleaner (TSP) and then sanded with 120 grit sandpaper before priming. Once the primer has dried, you can apply the type of paint you like (color-wise). Once the paint is dry, you have the option of distressing by mechanically abrading, banging or chipping the paint. Then a dark glaze is typically applied which accentuates the distress markings. Once dry the glaze should be protected with a coat of clear finish.

Yes - this application requires the use of toners for best results. Toners are always applied by spray equipment (usually Turbine HVLP, compressed air HVLP or conventional). Toners are available pre-mixed from some finishing supply companies, but are usually made by mixing color into a clear finish. For transparent toners, dye is used, while pigment is used for a semi-transparent effect. <br />Some finishers simply put stain into a clear finish, but you must make sure the two are compatible. It's best you get a hold of a good finishing supplier that caters to professionals. Here are several links:<br /><br />http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/<br /><br />http://www.touchupdepot.com/<br /><br />http://www.mlcampbell.com/<br /><br />Toners can be part of a complicated finishing schedule in which the wood is stained first with a dye stain, then glazed, then toned. Or you can simply apply sealer with color in it on bare wood until you get the depth of shade you want, then topcoat. ALWAYS topcoat your toner for protection.<br /><br />My latest book - The Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing, has a whole section on toners. <br /><br />http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/store/pages/070712.asp <br /><br />Jeff <br />

The best product to use is a trowel grade wood floor filler. Famowood makes one and I have seen it sold at Home Improvement stores. If you have a hard time finding it try this link:<br /><br />http://www.eclecticproducts.com/trowelgrade.htm<br /><br />Jeff

You can use shellac, varnish or lacquer. It doesn't really matter what the finish is, not does it need to be something special. One or 2 coats of the finish you like using (or are going to use over the painting works fine. <br /><br />Jeff

Stencil type finishing is never done on bare wood for the reason you describe. The stain will absorb into the wood and creep under the tape. <br />The best way is to seal the wood first with 2 coats of finish, apply your template and then spray the color/stain on. That ensures that the color doesn't get under the tape. You can apply color by hand, but it's best to use a gel stain or thick paint. Don't use a thin stain or it will possibly creep under. <br /><br />Jeff

No - not really. But you could try a paint stripper in a hidden area and see if it pulls out some of the color. Scrubbing with lacquer thinner also might work. Paint stripper is available in different forms that may be more user friendly and less smelly, so try that first. A citrus based stripper called Citristrip may work. <br /><br />Jeff

You can strip most of the stain color with a paint stripper. Let dry, sand lightly with 220. Use a stain controller first (like Minwax) and follow the directions on the can. Then apply the gel and it should be a little better. <br /><br />Jeff

Boiled linseed oil has driers (chemicals) added to it to make it dry faster. <br /><br />Jeff

Please call Customer Service at 800-237-2428 (east coast) <br /><br />

I'm not sure you want to use a rustproofing paint, and thinning a product with linseed oil can seriously affect it's performance and drying times. I think you'd be better off with a semi-transparent stain/finish, which should provide you with the re-coating criteria you mention. <br /><br />If you must use linseed oil and paint, I'd use boiled linseed oil. <br /><br />Jeff

You are experiencing normal expansion/contraction of the pine floors, which is even more pronounced in the winter when the cabin is heated. <br /><br />Short of re-doing the floor, there is no way to fix this. Make sure when she refinishes, she cleans the gaps really well, and try not to pool any poly in the gaps when applying finish. Poly is flexible enough so that it should present a movement problem even if it gets thick. <br />Using a lambswool floor finish applicator should help to keep the poly at the top. Brush the first coat on so as to seal the visible tongues. You may want to do this in the winter when the gaps are widest.

Usually there is not a way to do this - assuming you have just basic finishing skills. When you sand through the hardwood face veneer, you expose the core layer, which is poplar or fir, depending on where the panel was made. The core layer absorbs the stain differently and has a different texture. In addition the grain is running 90 degrees to the face. All of which presents problems in fixing. <br />I think you would be better off replacing it - rather than trying to live with a very noticeable repaired area. <br /><br />Jeff

You may be able to simply dry brush or feather in the unthinned stain. If you still get a light appeareance after the poly, you can add some of the stain to your poly. As long as you don't exceed 25%, it shouldn't affect the properties of the finish. <br /><br />Jeff

I would expect that a random orbit sander would work on the main area, but you would have to come back and finesse the edge by hand or with the edging sander. <br />Chemical stripping may also be an option. <br /><br />Jeff

This is a well-known problem with cherry. The solution is an approach of applying the stain so that it does not blotch. <br /><br />1. If using solvent based stains, glue-size can be applied as a method of controlling splotching. This is a water based product that is applied, allowed to dry, then scuff sanded before stain application. This product will not work with water based stains. Glue size is available from: <br /><br />http://www.custompak.com/<br /><br /><br /><br />2. If applying pigmented oil type wiping stains, oil based stain controller, thinned sanding sealer or shellac can be used in place of glue size. Sanding sealer or vinyl sealer is typically thinned 2 parts thinner to 1 part sealer, though the ratio of solvent can be decreased if blotching continues. <br /><br />3. If the above proves time consuming, or the depth of color cannot be achieved, the way most factory finishing is done is to simply spray apply a spray/no-wipe stain. Solvent based NGR's, water dyes can be used as no-wipe stains. Special pigmented stains are available. <br /><br />Please keep in mind something. This is NOT the fault of the wood. Cherry can blotch badly if special precautions are not followed. I would expect guidance from the finishing supplier for your customer to achieve a system that is dark enough without blotching. (ML Campbell) <br /><br />Jeff

Yes, you can paint it with the shellac based BIN and then go on to the paint. Make sure the surface is clean and it's not a bad idea to rough it up with some 180 grit. <br /><br />Jeff

The area that needs to be touched up must be cleaned with denatured alcohol, allowed to dry and sanded with 320 grit sandpaper before applying a touch up product. This should provide a mechanical bond. You might try calling Mohawk at 800-545-0047 for guidance in selecting a touch product. I would suggest a non-yellowing, water clear aerosol product. <br />Edges are far easier to do than internal areas, or large areas. The overspray "halo" effect may not be acceptable to cutomers. <br /><br />Jeff

To tint lacquer (or any clear finish) you add a colorant that's compatible with the finish. This process is called toning. You can add small amounts of Minwax stain to clear solvent based lacquer. Don't exceed 10% by volume. <br /><br />Lacquer has been used in the past but it is not used anymore. It has been replaced by pre-catalyzed lacquer. I suggest you find a Sherwin Williams Commercial Branch (not the regular consumer stores) in your area and take them a sample of the cabinet finish. They also have tints that are made for the lacquer they sell. They can maybe mix the toner up for you or at least make a recommendation on which tint to buy. They also can sell you pre-catalyzed lacquer. <br /><br />If you don't have one of these branches try a good paint store that sells ML Campbell products. <br /><br />Jeff

Use a polyurethane rated for floors. Two good ones are McCloskey GymSeal or Duraseal - which is made by Minwax. <br /><br />Keep in mind pine is soft and no finish may protect against the wear and tear from dogs. <br /><br />Jeff

There are many good finishes out there. Polyurethane is the most durable. Two I recommend are McCloskey GymSeal and DuraSeal which is made by Minwax. Duraseal can be found by going here:<br /><br />http://www.duraseal.com/<br /><br />GymSeal can be tracked down by calling the McCloskey help line at 1-800-345-4530<br /><br />Jeff

I have referred your e-mail address to Columbia Customer Service.

All paint is opaque, so it can only simulate an area of the finished wood that you want to match. The best way to do this is to take a sample of the finished oak to a Sherwin Williams store and have them mix up a paint for you based on what the computer sees. It will not be transparent, nor will it reflect the varying colors in a natural wood. <br /><br />Jeff

This is the wrong forum for your question. Please submit your question to the Plywood Forum. <br /><br />Jeff

I agree that the Gymseal is a better product and should hold up better. However ------ strong sunlight is bad for any polyurethane so you might see premature wear in those areas. Area rugs, UV tint film on the windows, or even blinds will all help the finish hold up better. <br /><br />Jeff

The maple is unstained in this color so there is no stain you can use on another wood to match it. <br /><br />Jeff

Orange shellac is sold under the Bullseye Brand (www.zinsser.com). It is called "amber". This product contains a natural wax, so it cannot be used as a sealer under certain finishes. <br />Dewaxed orange shellac is available, but only from specialty mail order suppliers. <br /><br />Jeff

I guess my main question here would be:<br /><br />"Why was plywood used when it was going to be painted"?. Sheetrock would have been a better substrate. <br /><br />The answer is that I don't know how plywood will take the taping and drywall compound and give a smooth finished surface. I don't see why you couldn't do it, but I just don't know long it will stay that way. I certainly would use a good quality primer.<br /><br />The following was added by someone I asked who does a lot of this sort of thing:<br /><br />"I would ensure that the plywood was screwed well to the studs, not just nailed. Prime with oil primer like Cover stain or Kilz, then sand well with 150. After a vacuum, wipe surface with damp cloth to remove all remaining sanding dust. <br />Proceed with standard tape/compound job. I would use paper tape instead of mesh, and NO plaster, just plain old compound."<br /><br /><br />Jeff

Oak has a different texture than cherry. Oak is "open grained" while cherry is "closed grain". You can minimize the differences in the two woods by using a cherry stain on the oak. Making it match perfectly is very hard to do, but you should be able to get close. You should strip or sand off the finish on the handrail before staining it for the best effect. <br /><br />Fortunately most stores that sell stains use oak for the display boards so you should be able to get a good match. <br /><br />Good Luck!<br /><br />Jeff

If using am oil based poly, clean them first with mineral spirits, let dry, then fine-sand using 320 grit sandpaper. Clean the residue and then apply a sealer/tie coat of Zinsser SealCoat (www.zinsser.com). Let dry overnight, then sand lightly with 320 again. Then apply poly. <br /><br />Jeff

Please post your question over on the Plywood Experts Forum. Ang is a Columbia FP employee and can direct you to the proper source. <br /><br />Jeff

Yes you can paint without stripping. Clean the surfaces with TSP cleaner. Dry and then sand with 150 grit sandpaper. Remove the dust and prime with a shellac based BIN (www.zinsser.com) primer. Sand the primer when dry and then apply your paint color. You can use either water based or oil based paint. <br /><br />Jeff

I'm guessing you mean the seams between the ply sheets. I'm not sure taping compound is good for wood panels. Tape and the joint compound was devised for inert drywall whcih has minimal if any movement. Plywood might be a bit more flexible but given the products out there to use, I think joint tape and compound might be the only thing you could find. I can't guarantee that you won't have issues down the road. Sorry I can't be more help.....<br /><br />Jeff

The main issue with this scenario is that the wood covered by the carpeting may be a different color and will stain differently. <br /><br />If you want to try it, sand the wood and then apply some mineral spirits. If you see the shadow of the carpet when it's wet with mineral spirits, that's the way it will stain and finish. So you may have to do a lot of sanding until it goes away. Try it on one tread to see if you can get it to look right and then evaluate whether it's worth the effort.<br /><br />Jeff <br /><br />

I define "standard" finishing practice for furniture and cabinetry as knowing that certain woods are prone to splotching. Birch is one of them. I would expect a good finisher to know this and take the proper steps to obtain an even effect. Splotching is covered in every one of my books as well as others that deal with furniture finishing. <br /><br />On the other hand, painters and general on site finishers hired by a general contractor may not know this. Steps to prevent uneven staining are not covered in books like the Painting and Decorating Craftsmans Manual, which is the bible for painters. <br /><br />To answer your question, unless steps are taken to minimize splotching (like wash-coating) birch will splotch. It's not the stain or the woods fault.If the cabinets were made by a cabinet shop specializing in kitchen cabinets and other buid-ins, I would expect them to know this. <br /><br />Unless you ordered from a sample, I don't think there's a whole lot you can do. <br /><br />Jeff

Stripping finish is best done with a chemical remover. If it's an old clear finish, or a lacquer finish, it should come off easily with something called a furniture refinisher:<br /><br />http://www.minwax.com/products/specialty/furn-refinish.cfm<br /><br />Using this product requires chemical resistant gloves (usually sold where the remover is, and 00 steel wool) <br /><br />This product does not work on paint, polyurethane or modern finishes, which require something called paint and varnish paste remover. If you use this product you need gloves, plenty of rags and a wide putty knife. <br /><br />With both products make sure you work in a well ventilated area, preferably outdoors in the shade. Do not work in a closed environment or outside in direct sunlight. <br /><br />Once you get the finish off, sand the wood with 150, then 220, going with the grain of the wood. If it's veneer be careful not to sand too much. If you're not sure, don't do too much sanding in one place. Then you stain and apply clear finish. <br /><br />Jeff

You used the wrong sealer. You should have used the BIN shellac based white primer/sealer which works better on knots. The one you used is for graffiti and stain blocking. <br /><br />Jeff

You might be able to, but artists use wash paints for this. They have the right characteristics of viscosity and open time for painting. I don't think stain would work very well. <br /><br />You would do best if you go to a crafts store or an artists supply store and ask. It's a common item. You might have to get two products, a paint and a thinner which keeps the viscosity and ope time the same. <br /><br />Jeff

The finishes you want to consider are:<br /><br />1. Solvent (lacquer thinner base) acrylic lacquer. Sold to professionals as spray only. Types are called CAB-Acrylic (Sherwin Williams), Butyrate lacquers, acrylic butyrate. Krylon makes an aerosol version called "Crystal Clear". I get it at art stores. Hobby and craft stores are also a good place. The krylon.com website can help you find a retailer. <br /><br />2. Water based acrylics. Look for a brand that says: "Water clear/non-yellowing" on the can. There are also some urethanes that fit this as well. Minwax Polycrylic is one name brand that fits. <br /><br />Water based finishes sometimes do not add the depth and shimmer you see in solvent based products. I get better results with by using a super pale (super blonde) dewaxed shellac first as a sealer coat. <br /><br />Try these on some samples and see what looks best. <br /><br />Jeff

First - clean the old finish with TSP to remove old dirt and grime. Then sand it with 150 and remove the dust. You might need a primer to establish a good bond between the old and new finish. White pigmented shellac (one brand is Zinsser BIN) is good for all types of paint. For this technique you can use oil based or water based paint, but if you use, use 100% acrylic. Two brands I like are Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo and Proclassic. <br /><br />Glazed finishes it's not a hard process to do. In a nutshell, you apply paint as your base color like you would to any other surface. After the paint dries the glaze is applied in two basic methods. In one - it's selectively applied to groves, recesses and moldings, and the excess wiped off to leave color just in the deeper parts. In the second method the glaze is applied all over, and the final effect is more or less a function of how the excess glaze is wiped off. The main issue is that once the glaze dries you have to protect it with a clear coat of finish compatible with the glaze. Typically water based glazes are used over water based paint and a water based clear finish is then applied. Same with oil based glazes, which are applied of oil based paint and clear oil varnishes are applied over the glaze. I recommend water based for this technique if you use a white or pastel, as many oil clear finishes add a yellow color which changes the whole effect. <br /><br />Pick up the February issue of WOOD Magazine which you can find at Borders and other good bookstores. It has an article I did in it that's pretty much like the finish you describe. It will tell you where to get the supplies, but any good local paint store (I'm partial to those that sell Benjamin Moore Paints) should be able to coach you through the process. <br /><br />Jeff

Sweep all dirt and debris off the treads. Sand the wood, starting with 100, then 120 and then 150. Use a machine like a random orbit sander for the best results. Then vacuum the dust off. <br /><br />I'd apply 3-4 coats of oil based polyurethane. You can probably speed things up by using a polyurethane sealer for the first coat. Use a good quality, natural bristle 2-1/2' brush. After the sealer coat has dried sand with 320 grit. Remove dust and then apply 3 coats poly, letting each coat dry the recommended time bewteen coats. Typically sanding is required if more than 24 hrs has passed after the last coat. <br />I like McCloskey GymSeal Finish for floors, but this as well as other oil based have a yellowy color. If you want no color at all, use a water based polyurethane. <br /><br />Jeff

Generally it's advisable to use a satin finish which will disguise scratches and scrapes better than something glossier. Make sure you apply at least 3-4 coats. Also, use polyurethane which resists scratches better than other types of finishes. <br /><br />Jeff

For the sake of argument lets assume you can order the cabinets unfinished. <br /><br />The general sequence is as follows:<br /><br />1. Sand the wood to 180 grit and remove the dust.<br /><br />2. Stain the wood or paint it if you like. <br /><br />3. Apply one clear coat of finish to lock in the stain. If you are painting, you can skip this. <br /><br />4. Apply a dark colored glaze product to just the recesses with a sash brush. Wipe the excess off with a rag. You can buy either oil based glazes which are used with oil paints and stains, or water based glaze which is used with water based stains and paints. <br /><br />5. Apply a clear finish over the glaze when it's dry in the sheen that you want. Today satin or semi-gloss seem to be the most popular. <br /><br />The process as done with paint and dark glaze can be seen in the latest issue of WOOD Magazine. <br /><br />NOTE: If the cabinets are already finished, it's not a process that can be done easily. <br /><br />Jeff

It's better that you strip the finish off completely and expose the bare, clean wood so that it will stain evenly. I suggest using a paste type paint and varnish stripper. Use it remove the finish and then use denatured alcohol to clean the residue. Then sand with 180 grit, then 220. Clean off the residue and then stain to your liking. Make sure to protect the stain with several coats of clear finish. <br /><br />Jeff

No problem. I sent you a private e-mail with details. <br /><br />Jeff

You don't say whether it's finished or not, but I'll assume it is, since oak wouldn't be used if the wood was meant to be painted. <br /><br />One thing you need to know is that oak can be painted, but the paint does not cover up the deep grain in this wood, and the result is that you have the grain visible. <br /><br />If you want to proceed, clean the woodwork with a TSP or substitute, then sand it with a maroon scotchbrite pad. Remove the dust and then apply your paint. I'd use oil base, because oil was probably used originally. If not - you can use waterbase. If you ask at a good paint staore, they can typically sell you a "tie-coat" primer which will bond the paint better to a questionable finish underneath. <br /><br />If you want to cover up the deep grain, the procedure is the same except that you'll have to apply more coats of primer and then level sand until the pore outlines are gone, then go with your paint. A lot of work.......<br /><br />Jeff

The simplest thing to do would be to try the same stain on the top if you have a scrap piece to test. (If no scraps, see below about wash-coating first).<br /><br />Generally speaking if you want to enhance figure on highly figured wood like quilted maple go with a water soluble dye stain. As long as the color is light, it should not splotch, but check first on a scrap piece. If it does splotch, apply a washcoat first. A washcoat is typically a 1/2 - 1 pound cut dewaxed shellac, applied with a rag, then sanded after drying with 240 drit sandpaper. You might have to try several colors to achieve the same tone as the bottom. <br /><br /><br /><br />Jeff

Sand them with 180 grit, then clean. You may want to check with your paint store to see if they suggest a "tie-coat" primer compatible with your paint to insure adhesion. <br /><br />Jeff

1. It isn't posible to stain Formica, you'd have to either put new Formica over the old or take the old off and replace it. <br /><br />2. You can stain wood a lighter color, however unless you want to paint it, you'll have to remove the old finish. Use a paint and varnish remover, and then clean all the residue with clean rags, then denatured alcohol. Sand with 150 grit, then 180 and then you can stain it the color you like. <br /><br />Jeff

Oak is oak and will exhibit prominent grain unless you paint it. <br /><br />However on the other issues, it sounds like you didn't do good surface preparation after stripping. Here is the way I do it. <br /><br />1. After you have removed the finish, take some of the stripper paste or liquid, and using a green Scotchbrite pad, scrub the wood surface to remove any residual finish and stain. Wipe excess sludge with paper towel or rags. <br /><br />2. Then use lacquer thinner and clean again with clean cloths. Follow that up when dry with sanding, first 150, then 180. After the 180 apply distilled water with a plant mister and see that the water does NOT bead up on the surface and "wets-out" the wood. (It darkens when it's wetted out.) This second step ensures that all finish is removed from the surface and is ready to accept stain or finish. If the surface feels rough after this step, sand again with 180. <br /><br />3. Try a white pickle stain, but in a gel form. These are thicker and do a better job of pickling on oak. Several applications may be necessary with drying in between. <br /><br />If you do a pickle finish make sure you use a light colored or water clear/non-yellowing finish. Most water based finishes fit this bill but check with the supplier and make sure it says so on the can. <br /><br />Jeff

Not really, but you could try painting and a technique called glazing which is a very popular technique right now. <br />First - before working on old painted surfaces that may contain lead, get the right respiratory protection. The easiest one to find is a P100 series disposable respirator. <br />Remove the loose paint with a nylon or soft brass brush, then clean with TSP or a TSP substitute. Let dry and sand with a maroon color synthetic Scotchbrite pad. Remove the dust with a vacuum and make sure you empty the vacuum immediately after and keep that respirator on!<br />Re-prime the surface with a primer that's compatible with the paint you'll use. (Tell the person at the paint store what you're doing and they should get you the right primer). Apply the paint and when it's dry apply a dark stain or glaze. When dry topcoat with a stain or flat clear finish. <br /><br />Good paint stores like Benjamin Moore dealers should have all the supplies you need, even the respirators. If you want to check out a version of this finish on a piece of furniture, look at the latest issue (Feb/March) of WOOD Magazine. <br /><br />Jeff

If by laminate you mean a Formica type product, no you cannot "fix" it easily. However an installer can put the same style laminate over it. This may be covered by the laminate manufacturers warranty. <br /><br />Somehow though I don't think you mean laminate in the conventional sense (like Formica) becuase it's rare that these products change color or fade. I think you may mean a manufactured wood product such as hardwood veneer plywood. The wood veneer, the stain and the finish are all affected by strong sunlight and a color change or fade is to be expected in strong sunlight. If this is the case, the wood must be stripped of the finish and sanded, re-stained and then finished. While there is no way to totally insure against problems caused by strong sunlight there are several steps you can do to minimize it's effects.<br /><br />1. Use UV tinted window film or blinds (white blinds are best) to filter or block the sunlight. <br /><br />2. Use a pigment stain (if you are staining) and I would discourage the use of oil based polyurethane which is notorious for cracking, peeling and yellowing under strong sunlight. Use a non-yellowing, water clear and water based polyurethane instead. Varathane is one easy to find product that should work well. <br /><br />Jeff

If you take a sample of the color to a Sherwin Williams store they have a computer that can help custom mix the stain for you. You may want to call in advance to make sure they offer the service.<br /><br />Another option is to use a product that is called a dye stain for wood. This product penetrates differently than common consumer wiping stains and may get you the color you want because they're offered in bright primary and seconday colors. For samples try here: <br /><br />http://www.wdlockwood.com/main.html<br /><br />I really don't know what the color "merlot" is, but if I had to guess the color Bordeaux may be close, or perhaps red mahogany. <br /><br />Jeff<br /><br />Jeff

When you have colored stains under a finish there is little you can do. I suggest you have a professional come out and take a look. What you are describing sounds like water damage. Oak is sensitive to water because of its high tannin content which leaves a grayish/black stain behind. <br /><br />The black color at the bottom indicates that the bottoms of doors were not properly finished. A standard KCMA (Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturers Association) edge soak test requires edges of doors to be properly finished to exclude mositure/water/steam penetration. <br /><br />All in all - I'd say you're due for a re-finish due to the age of the cabinets. 15 years ago cabinet finishers were still using lacquer which doesn't hold up as well as modern finishes like conversion varnish. <br /><br />Jeff

It depends on what you want to do. I'll outline below the options you have. To test if the wood has finish or some sort of sealer on it, apply several drops of water to a horizontal surface (don't wipe it). If it beads up, there is some sort of finish or stain on it and the surface will have to be cleaned with TSP or similar cleaner, then sanded. If it soaks up, there is no finish and all you have to do is a light sanding with 180 grit sandpaper. <br /><br />1. If you want to paint it, simply clean or sand, apply a primer compatible with your paint, then your paint. <br /><br />2. If you want to stain it darker, apply a stain after cleaning and sanding. My advice would be a gel stain, which can be applied in successive coats to build up to the color you want. <br /><br />3. If you want it lighter, you have to strip the surface with a furniture paste type stripper, sand, then stain. <br /><br />If you use a stain, the stain should be protected with several coats of clear polyurethane in the sheen that you want. If you paint it, the paint is plenty protective on it's own. <br /><br />Jeff

I take it that you mean the paint doesn't get down into the pore and the pore shows a different color? This problem is usually experienced when rolling or spraying. You might try cross-brushing with a brush first if this is the case. <br />The problem may also show up because the paint is simply not filling the pore, in which case a primer will fix the problem. You may have to use a brush to force it down into the pores as explained above. Also sand back after each coat of primer until the pore looks filled, then your coats of paint should flow out better. <br />A latex paint primer will work fine as long as it's oak plywood. On solid oak, a tannin blocking latex primer works well. <br /><br />Jeff<br /><br />Jeff

I am assuming that the cabinets are unfinished right?<br /><br />Part of what makes oak look the way it does is it's prominent grain structure, which will typically stain darker than the denser intermediate areas. That sounds like what's happening when you apply the stain and you don't like the look. <br /><br />Unfortunately, oak is not the best wood to paint, but since that sounds like the look you want, you should check out the February/March issue of WOOD Magazine. There is a great article on how to do the painted/glazed look you want. Help is usually available at good local paint stores. I'm partial to Benjamin Moore dealers. <br /><br />You also can get some basic information if you scroll down a bit to the oak cabinets question from Jan 15th. <br /><br />Jeff

Dark black areas are usually areas that come into frequent contact with peoples hands. It's probably where they were grabbed to open and close. As long as the finish does not feel sticky or is gummy, you can clean this off with some mineral spirits and a rag, followed by some water with a dash of Dawn detergent added. If it's really stubborn, you can try these solutions in conjunction with 0000 steel wool, but be careful, or you can remove the finish. <br /><br />If it's really bad, and the finish is removed easily by either of these solvents or gentle rubbing, it means that the frequent handling has deteriorated the finish and it needs to be removed and re-finished. <br /><br />Jeff

Glazed finishes are very popular today. "Glazing" is a technique of applying a translucent color (almost like a stain) over a sealed surface. The surface can be stained or painted and in your case it sounds like an off white paint was used. <br />It's not a hard process to do. In a nutshell, you apply paint as your base color like you would to any other surface. On wood, a primer is generally used first. After the paint dries the glaze is applied in two basic methods. In one - it's selectively applied to groves, recesses and moldings, and the excess wiped off to leave color just in the deeper parts. In the second method the glaze is applied all over, and the final effect is more or less a function of how the excess glaze is wiped off. <br /><br />Pick up the latest issue of WOOD Magazine which you can find at Borders and other good bookstores. It has an article I did in it that's pretty much like the finish you describe. It will tell you where to get the supplies, but any good local paint store (I'm partial to those that sell Benjamin Moore Paints) should be able to coach you through the process. <br /><br />Jeff

To answer the first question: Unless the flooring is the same product and comes from the same lot and manufacturer, I would not expect them to match. From the wording of your question, it seems they are not. Even natural finishes (no stain) can result in different shades of flooring, even though it may say "maple" or "oak". <br /><br />If both of these products are manufactured, pre-finished, flooring I would advise against re-finishing or reducing the sheen unless you talk to a professional who can determine if these procedures can be done. <br /><br />If both products are from Columbia Flooring, and are supposed to match, contact the Columbia Distributor who handled your sale and they can direct you to the proper folks at Columbia. <br /><br />Jeff

The short answer is no. In some situations you can proceed directly to the latex paint without the use of a primer, but if the situation calls for a primer, the regular paint won't work the same. <br />Primers are formulated for specific applications, such as sealing old finishes, grafitti blocking, smoke damage blocking and so on, but they all share some general characteristics, one of which is sandability. Regular latex paint doesn't sand well and that reason alone makes using a primer a good thing. <br /><br />Jeff

If that is the case, yes you can apply more stain. Clean the surface thoroughly with mineral spirits, then sand them when dry with 320 grit sandpaper or a gray abrasive pad. Wipe some oil stain on and see if it darkens enough to your liking (you cannot re-stain them lighter). <br /><br />If the liquid oil stain doesn't work very well try an oil based gel stain like Bartley or Minwax. <br /><br />One the stain is dry several coats of oil based polyurethane should be applied. <br /><br />Jeff

Painting cabinets is very straightforward to do and well within the range of the average do-it-your-selfer. If you were staining them, you'd probably have to strip them, but as long as the finish is in good shape, you should be able to paint right over the existing finish. <br /><br />First, determine that the finish is in good shape. There should be no large areas of finish missing, and it should not be peeling and cracked all the way through to the bare wood. If all looks OK you can proceed. <br /><br />To paint the cabinets, remove all the hardware and clean them with TSP or similar substitute (TSP is not sold in some states). Let dry, and then sand with 220 grit sandpaper. Remove the dust and then apply a primer. Personally I would use a "tie-coat" primer available from your paint store. Tell them what you're doing and they'll know what to sell you.<br /><br />After the primer is applied, sand it and remove the dust. Now you have a decision to make. Oak has very pronounced grain which are channels in the wood. If you do not want these to show, you'll have to apply more primer, let it dry and then sand back until the grain is gone and the surface is smooth. This may require a good deal of extra effort so be forewarned. <br /><br />Once the surface is primed to your liking, apply your base coat paint. Let it dry then apply your glaze. I would apply a clear topcoat over the glaze once it's dry to protect the glaze and allows you to clean the surface easier. Use a gloss, semi-gloss or satin clear finish. <br /><br />The above procedure can all be done in water base, which eliminates strong odors in your house. <br /><br />Jeff<br />

Yes - it will work. You need the mechanical adhesion from the sanding. If scratches are visible try moving up to a 320 or 400. I would also wipe the surface with denatured alcohol after sanding to remove the dust as well as other possible surface contaminants. <br />We have found that most acrylics, nitrocellulose lacquers, vinyls, and pre-cat lacquers exhibit good adhesion directly to the finished panel. <br /><br />Jeff

Are you receiving the product from your supplier already scratched or is it getting scratched during your production process? <br /><br />While the product will resist most common surface scratching, it will scratch if slid on a rough surface (like a cabinet saw table. It can also pick up dirt and debris between panels during transport and storage that cause some surface scratching. I would get with your supplier and between them and Columbia they can address your concerns. <br /><br />Jeff

It sounds to me like vinyl re-facing which is not a "wood" product. <br /><br />Jeff

For best results, the original finish must be removed, the wood sanded with 180 grit sandpaper, then re-stained and finished with a commercial kitchen cabinet finish or if you do it yourself, polyurethane. <br /><br />Jeff

Yes you can but you still may see some of the open texture of the oak showing through. You may be able to minimize it a lot by using an easy sand primer in multiple coats before the paint. Apply several coats of the primer and sand it with 220 when dry to "cut back" the primer until the grain is filled. Then apply your paint. <br /><br />Jeff

Yes it paints well. For the best results, tape the exposed edges with veneer tape (the iron on kind) and trim the excess. Sand the ply with 150 to smooth it once it's assembled. Then remove the residue and apply a primer. Two coats of primer with sanding between are recommended. Use 220 grit in between coats. Then apply your paint. You can use either latex or oil based. I prefer the latex because the oil based will smell once it gets hot. If you use latex make SURE you use an acrylic enamel. Examples of this type are Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo acrylic and Sherwin Williams ProClassic. <br /><br />Jeff

Question 1. Toners are used when the wood may stain unevenly if a stain is wiped on. They are also used to achieve very even coloration. Typically the wood is sealed with a low solids sealer, sanded, then the toner applied. An experienced operator is necessary for this phase and they "tone up" to match an approved sample. A clear coat is then applied for protective qualities. This process, if done correctly results in very tight tolerances for uniformity and color, because it eliminates the unpredictability that happens when wood is wiped with a stain. (light/dark areas, splotching, etc) <br /><br />Question 2. Sanding sealers are used when a thinned version of the topcoat finish is unacceptable or does not perform well. An example is lacquer, which does not sand well, so a sanding sealer is used which has additives to make it sand better.<br />Some finishes sand perfectly well and dry fast like waterbase and conversion varnish so sealers aren't necessary.<br />In other situations sealers like shellac or vinyl will prevent problems such as adhesion. <br /><br />Jeff

I wouldn't use either oil based or latex for paint on a guitar. It'd best to use pigmented nitro lacquer. You'll have to make your own using the colorants here:<br /><br />http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Colors,_tints,_and_stains/ColorTone_Liquid_Pigments_for_Lacquer.html<br /><br />Oil base can wrinkle badly when sprayed with lacquer and latex is too soft. <br /><br />JJ

Usually a polish of some sort will do wonders. Try one of the many products called "Lemon Oil" or something similar. In this area we get a product called Milsek which is good stuff.<br /><br />http://www.milsek.com/

This type of problem typically is a reaction between iron and water. It's easy enough to remove "black stain" (as it's called) on bare wood using a wood bleach product known as oxalic acid.<br /><br />http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=324<br /><br />When it's applied to the bare wood it works very quickly and 99% of the time with one application. But the procedure is somewhat dicey if there is any finish over the problem areas. If it doesn't work, the bleach has to applied after stripping the finish. <br /><br />Jeff<br />

If you are finishing it yourself, the only product you can use is a hard water based urethane finish. Make sure it's water clear and non-yellowing. <br /><br />If you have spray equipment and the right facilities, or a professional is doing it, use a 2 component urethane, (also called 2K urethane). If possible specify an aliphatic (non-yellowing) urethane with a UV inhibitor for substrate protection. These are made by companies such as ICA, ILVA, and Chemcraft. This type of finish is the most durable you can apply to your projects, and it's the one that's on my desk at work. <br /><br />Jeff

Typically yes, but you should check with the manufacturer for cleaning instructions. <br /><br />Jeff

As long as the cabinets are unstained, a darker color will make the grain less pronounced as it will contrast less with the intermediate denser areas. The color chart in the link below shows this quite well<br /><br />http://www.minwax.com/products/woodstain/gelstain-color.cfm<br /><br />However, your cabinets are already finished which makes things problematic, because the stain won't have anywhere to penetrate. You can try the following procedure on a hidden or inconspicuous area and see if the results are OK. <br /><br />1. Clean the surface with TSP. Let dry<br /><br />2. Sand the finsh with 220, and remove the dust. <br /><br />3. Purchase one of the gel stains mentioned in the link above(make sure they are gel stains, not the normal liquid stains), apply the gel stain to this area and see if the result looks OK to you. I recommend the gel stains because you can spread them on and wipe the excess off in a manner that creates the effect that you want. Try not to apply too heavy a coat. <br /><br />4. Once dry apply several coats of an oil based varnish or polyurethane. <br /><br />5. Wait 72 hours after the last clear coat and then apply some clear packing tape to the finished area and press it down with your finger. Then quickly tear it off. If the entire stain/finish comes off with the tape, that means your finish didn't stick well to the finish on the cabinets and you may have to apply a dewaxed shellac "tie-coat" to the old finish after the sanding step above, but before you put on the stain. <br /><br />As you can see, this may or may not work. It's due to the modern finishes typically used in kitchen cabinets that's very tough to finish over. Consider paint as a last option. <br /><br />Jeff

With current manufacturing techniques and the products used to make kitchen cabinets, I don't think the average handy-oriented homeowner can do anything but paint them. To stain something you need to get it into the bare wood, and it's not possible for you to strip your cabinets. <br /><br />To paint the cabinets, remove all the hardware and clean them with TSP or similar substitute (TSP is not sold in some states). Let dry, and then sand with 220 grit sandpaper. Remove the dust and then apply your paint. I would use a "tie-coat" primer available from your paint store. Tell them what you're doing and they'll know what to sell you. <br /><br />Jeff<br />

You don't have to sand the paint, but if it feels rough, I would. Use 400 grit sandpaper and then make sure you remove the debris/dust left behind with a water dampened rag. Do not use a tack cloth or a product like steel wool. <br /><br />You can also sand between coats of the clear finish like above if it's rough. <br /><br />Jeff

The is no water based primer that won't raise the grain. At least I've never found one. You can mimimize the grain raise by the way you apply it. Try not too apply the first coat too heavy. Also sanding to 320 or 400 grit will minimize the raise. <br /><br />Jeff

There aren't any isuues with applying clear finishes. Use one that you like. Start sanding with 150 and then 180, making sure the 180 final sanding is with the grain and by hand with a backing block. <br /><br />As for stain uneven staining may occur with any type of stain. Gel stains are probably the least likely to do this while oil based liquid stains may be the worse. Try some of the stain on a test piece that's been sanded as noted above. Judge for yourself if the stain is acceptably even. If you see random, darker patches of stain, that's not good and you should use a stain conditioner. Make sure you use one that's compatible with your stain - water based for water based stains and oil based for oil based stains. Follow the directions on the can. It will never hurt to use a conditioner, however the stain will come out lighter than it does without using it. <br /><br />Jeff

10-4-2005.....This is a known problem with just about all finishes on maple. It seems particularly prevalent with veneer, but I think I have heard of it with solids. Unfortunately I do not have an answer at this time. I'll dig further and see what I can come up with. <br /><br />10-11-2005 - update..... I've checked with several technicians and others and everyone has heard of this but under various circumstances and finishes. I need a sample of the problem to test. If anyone can get me one please contact me. ----- Jeff<br /><br />Jeff

I don't run across this exact term frequently but it means that the surface of the wood hardened, preventing absorption of the paint into the cells of the wood. It may be caused by final milling operations done to the wood which burnished or glazed the surface (think of rubbing a raw piece of wood with a piece of metal). This burnishing prevents finishes from sticking properly. Mill glaze is also prevalent in pressure treated lumber <br /><br />I would find out if any surface preparation was done to this product on site before it was painted. This is part of the painters job. Unless the product was shipped to the job site "ready to finish" it is the painters fault if the material wasn't properly prepared by sanding, cleaning or both. I suspect that little or none of the former was done. Sanding is part of surface preparation which insures a good bond between the paint and the wood. <br /><br />Jeff<br /><br />

I doubt you can successfully stain without stripping the old finish off. <br /><br />Stains as a rule do not have great adhesion over finished surfaces, particularly if it's a commercially produced cabinet which used conversion varnish. Plus the white stain will interfere with giving you a "cherry" color. It might be "doable" but I'd enlist the advice of a professional finisher in your area. The commercial procedure involves barrier sealing and toning the color on, followed by (preferably) more conversion varnish. <br /><br />If you want, you might try this:<br /><br />1. Sand an unseen area with 320 grit sandpaper and remove the dust with naphtha. <br />2. Apply a Minwax "Polyshades" in the color you like, let it dry thoroughly and then topcoat it with 2 coats of polyurethane (oil based). <br />3. Let it dry 72 hours and then take a fingernail and push it across the surface, trying to see if you can scrape off the finishes you applied. If so, the product did not stick and you'll either have to call a pro, or strip the cabinets down to bare wood and re-stain. <br /><br />Painting will work if you're looking to change the color to an opaque one. <br /><br />Jeff

The solvent lacquer isn't appropriate to put over the paint becuase it may wrinkle it - but it will also add a yellow tone. I'd use a product called General Finishes Poly/Acrylic blend, a water based finish thats tough, brushes well and won't change the color of the paint. Just make sure you use the same sheen as the other product. <br /><br />Jeff

To prepare a surface for paint the key is to use a primer. Primers are multi- purpose products in that they hide the grain, fill in minor imperfections and provide adhesion of the paint applied over it. <br /><br />I would sand the ply with 150 and fill any imperfections you see with putty. Ease all sharp edges with the 150 as paint will not stick to a sharp edge. Then apply 1 coat of primer that's specified for your paint type (oil or water base). Sand it with 220. Then examine the surface again for defects, fill again if necessary, sand the putty smooth, then apply another coat of primer. When dry sand lightly with 220, enough to smooth the primer but be careful that you don't cut through to the bare wood. <br /><br />Tack the surface clean or wipe it with a damp cloth if using water base. <br /><br />Now a note about latex paint. Don't use latex wall paint. Use a water base enamel that says "100% acrylic". Or use an oil enamel. Examples of water based paints are Sherwin Williams ProClassic or Benjamin Moore Low Lustre Waterborne Satin Impervo® Enamel. <br /><br />Two coats of paint in the proper sheen should provide plenty of protection.

Wood should be sanded for finishing materials to adhere properly. In your case all I'd do is clean the surface with some mineral spirits first, then some water with a small amountg of Dawn added. This will raise the grain which is exactly what you want becuase it will open up the wood and allow a finish to adhere. Sand the grain smooth with 220 grit sandpaper, and then apply 1-2 coats of Minwax Satin Polycrylic, a finish which won't alter the color. It will protect the piece from drying out and stains and such, but not look like anything was applied. <br /><br />Jeff

Ideally you should strip the finish off and re-stain, however with the inlays this is hard to do. Most liquid stains won't adhere properly over finished wood. However a thick gel stain or "Polyshades" product may work -provided you sand the finish with 320 grit sandpaper first. Put some blue colored painters tape on the inlays to protect them before staining. And protect the stain with 2 coats of clear polyurethane. <br /><br />Jeff

When water causes a dark patch, it usually means the water has penetrated through whatever finish is on the furniture and reacted with the wood. <br /><br />I know of no other method to fix this than to remove all the finish from the top and apply a wood bleach that's called oxalic acid to the area. Not all wood bleaches are the same - make sure you get one like this: <br /><br />http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=324<br /><br />This will remove the dark water stain but not affect the wood. Follow the instructions on the can for mixing, applying and removing the residue. Then re-apply a finish. <br /><br />This is not a basic repair job - so don't be sheepish about enlisting the services of a Pro. <br /><br /><br />Jeff

My personal opinion is that's it's better to use an exterior penetrating finish and apply it every year. If you apply a urethane or other thick fil-forming finish, you'll have less maintenance, but the work to strip it every 3-4 years (if you're lucky and can get that life from it) is tedious and requires sanding or chemicals. There are exterior clear finishes that will last longer - perhaps 6-10 years, but these require specific application techniques and are more hazardous to work with (check into a marine finish called "linear" urethane or 2 part aliphatic urethane). <br /><br />I guess in the long run it's six of one/half dozen of another, but I personally like the look of the penetrating oil.<br /><br />Jeff

Yes provided you sand the finish that's on there with 240 grit sandpaper and then clean the dust off. Then you can then paint in any color you choose. <br />Do NOT use latex paint. Use an oil based or an acrylic trim enamel (Sherwin Williams ProClassic is an example). If you use latex, books will stick to it. <br /><br />Jeff

Lacquer is OK if you take care of your furniture, but with young children, I typically recommend an oil based poly or a wiping varnish. <br /><br />JJ

If you mean what age did I start woodworking? It was around 12 or 13. I developed an interest in refinishing when I was in my early twenties. The real urge to build "things" developed in college when I decided that I wanted to build acoustic guitars. I was thirty when I finally built one. <br /><br />It sounds like you're exited about building things. See if you can take some classes or get into some shop classes at school. It's very nice to have "fans" your age, I really appreciate the comments.<br /><br />Jeff

You might get a bit better exposure here:<br /><br />http://www.woodweb.com/index.html<br /><br />Jeff

Generally the oil finishes are preferred for grain enhancement and figure. The lightest of these products is a soya based alkyd varnish like McCLoskey Heirloom or Pratt and Lambert Clear #38. Reduce it 1:1 with mineral spirits for a wipe on product. <br /><br />Jeff<br /><br />

First - I suggest you get a moisture meter. These are not terribly expensive tools. Keep the ply in your shop at least 1 month before finishing if you can, but watch the storage during the months you heat your shop in the winter. The checking you describe could be from the minute veneer knife checks opening up (rupturing the face veneer) during periods of expansion, and the finish polymer cannot withstand the force and cracks. The problem is probably most severe when the panels are prepared and finished in the winter months during periods of low humidity - and the checking shows up later. <br />In the past "brittle" finishes such as nitrocellulose have had this problem. We've also seen it in modern pre-cats and post cats. <br />I don't think the problem is entirely in your specific schedule. Some have tried glue-sizing with success, however I have no documented experience with this as a "tried and true" method. It may be more prudent to check with your finish supplier to see if a more flexible finish is available. Due to your small size, this may or may not be a workable solution.<br /><br />I think managing the storage of your panels is a step in the right direction. <br />Here's a link for some recommendations. <br /><br />http://www.custompak.com/Technical%20Library/Veneer%20Checking.htm<br /><br />These folks sell glue-size, and may also have some other support options. <br /><br />Jeff

A "checked" or crazed finish is part of the original patina. I think what would be best is to simply try a thorough cleaning. The following is based on an article I wrote some time ago:<br /><br />FINISHES THAT CAN'T BE SAVED<br /><br />Not all old finishes can be saved. Finishes that are severely damaged or degraded to the point where they can no longer effectively do a good job of protecting the wood should be removed. Although most conservators would like to save the original finish when possible, finishes that have degraded to the point where the wood is in jeopardy should be removed. These situations include severe water or heat damage, large losses of the finish where the wood is exposed and situations where the finish is severely discolored. Another finish that cannot be saved is a finish that is sticky. Sticky finishes are those that have become chemically altered to the point where they will never fully harden, and finishes applied over them shortly become soft and sticky. Severe water or heat damage appear as large white areas where the finish is peeling or flaking off. Large exposed areas of wood are very difficult to blend in without highly developed skills so removal of the entire finish is called for. Another problem finish is one in which the finish has been mixed with pigment and applied thickly. Old varnishes and shellacs applied in this manner may develop large cracks or "islands" which show the bare wood below. This finish should be removed in most cases. An exception are crazed or cracked finishes where the cracks do not go all the way through to the wood below. I'll explain how to deal with this later. <br />The goal in restoring an old finish is not to make it look brand new. At best, this treatment should restore as much of the original condition as possible and prevent further deterioration. While by no means is restoring a finish a "quick-fix" type of repair, on most pieces it should be less time-consuming and expensive than a complete stripping and refinishing. In addition, you do not run the risk of ruining the value of an old piece of furniture by removing a piece of its history. The following are the steps in saving an old finish. Sealing damage, cleaning, abrading the old finish (if necessary) and finally waxing. <br /><br />SEALING DAMAGE <br /><br />Damage that needs to be sealed are dents, scratches and small areas of finish that have been worn away. The cleaning process involves water and solvents that could possibly affect bare wood and it should be protected. For sealing, I use a 2 lb. cut light-colored shellac. Using a red-sable artist's brush, I brush several light coats of shellac to the damaged area and then let the shellac dry overnight. Do not try to match the color to the surrounding finish at this point. The cleaning will lighten up the color so blending in at this point will result in a mismatch. <br /><br />CLEANING<br /><br />Before cleaning, it helps to know what the finish is so that the appropriate cleaners can be used. I test the finish by a three step process using various solvents. Find an inconspicuous spot such as behind a leg and dab a little denatured ethyl alcohol on the finish with a small brush or cotton swab. After thirty seconds tap the area with your finger - if it's sticky the finish is shellac. If the alcohol doesn't affect the finish try a little lacquer thinner. If the finish still isn't sticky, it is probably an oil-based varnish or polyurethane. Knowing which finish you have minimizes possible damage from cleaning solvents as we will see later. <br />Cleaning is a two step process which removes both water-soluble and oil-soluble dirt and grime. The first cleaning step uses a hydrocarbon based cleaner like mineral spirits or VM&P Naphtha. I prefer to use VM&P Naphtha rather than mineral spirits because it flashes or evaporates much quicker. It's important to test a small amount of the cleaner on an inconspicuous area. Certain oil-based finishes varnishes can irreversibly whiten on exposure to some hydrocarbons so testing is crucial and it's important to know what the finish is. Oil finishes may soften and be completely removed, but in most cases VM&P Naphtha has proved the best all-around solvent in my use. Dampen a clean cloth with the Naphtha and rub a small surface at a time. Do not saturate the surface. Switch to clean cloths frequently. <br />The next step involves using a detergent mixed with distilled water. Professionals use a wide variety of specialized products, but I've found an alternative is Dawn® - a commercial dish-washing detergent that is readily available. I use a solution of one capful in a pint of lukewarm water. Apply the solution with a dampened clean cloth, (not dripping wet) and rub a small area at a time. Some grime comes off quickly, while others may take a little longer. You'll see your progress by the dirt on the rag, so change the surface frequently. Afterwards, wipe all the excess detergent off with clean water and proceed to the next step. <br /><br />ABRADING<br /><br />The cleaning above removes the surface dirt from the finish but it still may be hazy or whitish. Part of this problem may be from small crazing or cracks in the finish which reflect light - making the surface appear dull. If this is the case and the cracks do not go all the way through to the wood, abrading part of the finish will remove most of the cracks. I use non-loading sandpaper like 3M's Fre-cut®Gold, (sandpaper manufactured to minimize clogging - sold as "SandBlaster" in DIY stores), to abrade away a portion of the finish. I start with 240 grit and proceed to 320 grit and finally 400 grit. I back the paper with a felt or cork block and avoid the edges since it's easy to cut completely through the finish. I strongly recommend wearing a dust mask since the dust is irritating. Sand in straight lines with the finish and wipe the residue off frequently with a Naphtha dampened rag. You can stop sanding when the grain of the wood is visible or when the cracks have disappeared. Patience is required because a heavy hand will cut through the finish and you'll have no choice but to strip at that point. Wipe the piece with Naphtha and let dry overnight. <br />At this point you have the option of applying more finish, which may be necessary to restore luster and depth, or to blend in and protect repairs. Pigments or dyes mixed with shellac can be used to touch up and light areas and applied with a small brush. Afterwards, several coats of shellac can be brushed or padded on. You don't have to apply any finish though, and it's recommended that you don't if you're unsure of whether this will detract from the value of the piece. <br /><br />WAXING<br /><br />The piece is now ready for the final step. I prefer to wax and buff out, but if you want, you can apply a light coat of whatever finish you prefer. Shellac or varnish will both work over most finishes but shellac should be used if the piece is an antique. I would avoid polyurethane because it will not bond very well to an old finish. Either way, you may need to do a little touch-up first. There may be small areas where the finish is removed down to the bare wood. These should be sealed with several coats of a 2 lb. cut shellac applied with an artist's brush or a small varnish brush. After drying these, areas can be blended into the surrounding area using shellac mixed with dry artists pigments. After drying, seal all repaired areas again with a 2 lb. cut shellac. <br />For the final waxing, I prefer a good quality furniture wax like Antiquax. All these waxes come in clear and brown. I prefer the colored waxes because any wax that lodges in crevices or small defects will not be noticeable when dry. Put a scoop of wax inside a clean cloth and apply the wax in a small circular motion. On turned areas, carvings and other irregular areas, work the wax in with a stiff bristle brush. Work on a manageable area at a time and when the wax hazes buff it out using a clean cloth. After drying overnight, give it a second waxing. <br />When the second coat dries you'll have a restored finish without the bother or hassle of stripping. You'll find it's much less work and the result is that you haven't possibly detracted from the value if the piece is an antique. As an added bonus, you find that the entire process can be done in one weekend, rather than two or three weekends. And finally, the piece will have retained the patina that took so long to acquire with time. <br /><br />Good luck <br /><br />Jeff<br />

As of this time there is not. For about 4-5 years, there was a publication called Professional Refinishing Magazine. You might try libraries for copies. <br /><br />Jeff

I think this may not be the best place for your question. I have no experience in wood burning (I think it's called pyrography?)<br /><br />I think building your own may be the best bet. <br /><br />Jeff<br /><br />

I would seal the exposed edge first with a clear sealer that will minimize/block penetration of the paint base. Glue size can be used for solvent base, shellac for water base. White primer may also be used as it will plug the porous MDF. If it were me I'd try samples before "practicing" on the real thing. <br /><br /><br /><br />Jeff

No - the product is designed for interior use only as it is bonded with UF type II adhesive. I'd also expect premature finish failure outdoors. <br /><br />Jeff

There is some contamination causing this. The only thing to do is to clean the new lacquer off with lacquer thinner, then denatured alcohol. Let dry and then apply a special lacquer sealer called "vinyl lacquer sealer", or dewaxed shellac. This will cure the problem. If it re-appears, then all your friend can do is to lightly mist on the lacquer in these areas, building it slowly. <br /><br />Jeff

You should contact CFP directly <br /><br />https://www.columbiaforestproducts.com/support/sales.html

If it has a finish on it, no it's not easy to unwarp. It the warp is all across the width (slightly convex or concave),install screws or tabletop fasteners (available from specialty woodworking suppliers like Rockler Hardware or Woodcraft) from underneath and pull it flat. <br /><br />If it's warped only in the area where the plant was, I suspect you have a veneered top and the veneer may have detached from the substrate. This is a not an easy repair unless you have the right tools so you may want to contact a professional. <br /><br />Jeff

You must have me mistaken with another Jeff - I haven't written an article on staining doors. <br /><br />Anyway, if the door is a darker color and finished with a clear varnish, you have to strip the finish off, which should also remove most of the stain. If you wipe the wood after stripping with mineral spirits and the wood is lighter than what you want - all you do is apply the right color stain you want. If it's still too dark, you'll have to sand the wood until it gets light enough to stain. <br /><br />Jeff

You can partially seal it with several applications of a 1 pound cut shellac, which may let the aroma come through. <br /><br />Jeff

It sounds like you're using a wiping pigment stain. To get really dark colors on harwood like ash - you should switch to what's called an NGR stain whcih is based on deep penetrating dye. Mohawk sells a product called Ultra Penetrating Stain that will work:<br /><br />http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=178<br /><br />I addition - Sherwin William Commercial Branches and ML Campbell should be able to provide a product and assistance in getting the color you want. You may have a local distributor in your area. <br /><br />Jeff

A very good explanation on how to sand a floor can be found here:<br /><br />http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00113.asp<br /><br />After the sanding and buffing stages, you're ready to apply varnish. Typically you have a choice between oil or water based. Oil is probably easier to use if you've not done much finishing. I would recommend Waterlox or McCloskey (GymSeal). Use the latter if it's a floor where you need lots of durability (high traffic, dogs, kids etc). <br /><br />The different manufacturers have minor variations in the schedules so it's hard to give general directions, but my best advice is to make sure the floor is clean before applying your first coat. Vacuum at least twice. Apply the first coat with a lambswool pad applicator (available at Home Depot and other DIY stores) and let it dry. Urethanes must be sanded between coats while some of the Waterlox products may not require it. Sanding bewteen coats removes minor blemishes and prepares for the next coat. <br /><br />Apply at least 3 coats.<br /><br />Jeff

Maple plywood exhibits an effect known as "barber pole" - where the veneer change from light to dark when the veneer is bookmatched. This is not a defect in the plywood. The only way I know to control the problem is to spray your stain on and not wipe it. My latest book - The Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing Wood" deals with this problem in plywood in the chapter on Controlling Color. <br /><br />JJ

Generally, all you have to do is to sand the remaining finish with 120, then 150 grit. Remove the dust, and re-stain with a exterior based stain of your choice. Apply it with a brush and wipe the excess off. Let dry and then apply a spar exterior varnish in the sheen you wish. I would apply at least 6 coats. <br /><br />PS - Marine finishing products generally are better performers than what you find at a DIY or hardware store. They have good advice too.<br /><br />Jeff

You need to clean the surface until water will not bead up when applied to the bare wood. I rarely use acetone as it evaporates too quickly. Do this and make sure you wipe any grime off afterwards with clean cloths or paper towels:<br /><br />1. Rinse with lacquer thinner, wipe clean, let dry. <br /><br />2. Rinse with denatured alcohol - wipe clean, let dry.<br /><br />3. Apply water and make sure it doesn't bead up - if it does, use a 50/50 mix of denatured alcohol and tap water applied with a maroon Scotchbrite pad. <br /><br />Once water soaks readily into the wood, any finish will apply well. <br /><br />Jeff

I would specify a solvent based conversion varnish if he has the right equipment (it's a spray only finish). <br />If he doesn't handle this type of finish, he should find someone who can. It is the typical finish specified for kitchen cabinets<br /><br />Jeff

Without seeing the sample piece you want to match - it's difficult. Generally outside aged wood is difficult becuase of the ropey, stringey type texture. <br /><br />1. If the wood you have is lighter in color that what you want to match it's simply a process of picking the right stain and distressing the wood surface to simulate dents, dings and other marks of age. This is typically done by distressing the wood with wire brushes, picks, awls, files and chains. Once you have distressed it, the wood is colored using a water soluble dye stain to the color you want. These stains are preferred because they don't react to textural anomalies oof the wood. The wood is sealed with clear finish, then a thick "antiquing" stain is applied which is usually a dark thick glazing stain. <br /><br />2. If the wood you want to match is lighter, you must first bleach the new wood lighter with a two part wood bleach. <br /><br />To reproduce exterior planks, the finisher uses a wire brush to simulate the rough opened up grain. <br /><br />I would suggest you look at two books I wrote - Great Wood Finishes" and "The Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing" for more on these techniques. The latter title has a complete step by step sequence for doing the first distressing technique explained above. It also covers bleaching. <br /><br />Jeff

The compressor's cfm output at a given psi needs to be matched to the cfm used by the gun at the same pressure. For example, if your compressor put's out 4 cfm at 40 psi, and your gun requires 10 cfm at 40 psi, the compressor cannot keep up with the gun and it will not work properly. It may work for a little, but it will quickly run out of air. This isn't terrible if you're doing jewelry boxes, but it's bad if you're finishing a dining table or baseboard molding. <br /><br />There are HVLP guns now that are a hybrid form of HVLP and are called LVLP (low volume, low pressure). These guns are designed to work with smaller compressors that put out 8 cfm or less at 40 psi. Of course you can always buy as big a compressor as the budget and space allows, but many DIY'ers use the modest sized cart style compressors with 25 gallon horizontal tanks or smaller with the LVLP guns. <br /><br />First - determine what gun you want to buy and find out the cfm it requires at 40 psi. <br /><br />Second - match that figure to the compressor you're thinking about and make sure it's the same number or higher. Higher is always good.<br /><br />Jeff<br />

It sounds like you need to switch to another finish. Look at a polyurethane or 2K polyurethane for better scratch resistance in the sheen you want. Good suppliers of the 2K are ICA, ILVA and Chemcraft. <br /><br />Jeff

Assuming you are using a darker stain, it's adisable to at least make the surface uniform. This doesn't mean you need to remove all the old stain, just even it out. I'd sand with 150 or 120 until the surface appears uniform. You can check by wiping it with mineral spirits, which will telegraph any uneven patches. Scrubbing the surface with a "refinisher" type furniture stripper may be faster. Formby's makes one that's easy to find in your area. <br /><br />If you are using a lighter stain you'll need to sand to get down to bare wood as much as possible.<br /><br />Jeff

I suggest a sanding with a fine sandpaper (600 grit), followed by the steel wool, either a 000 grade or the gray synthetic pads (Scotchbrite)<br /><br />Try reducing the varnish with 10% mineral spirits. <br /><br />Jeff

Alder is known for it's uneven staining, called splotching. If you decide to do this job yourself, you'll need some larger pieces of alder to experiment on. Dealing with a splotchy wood requires pre-treatment before staining with a stain controller or a washcoat. The popular finishing books out there all deal with this procedure. <br /><br />That's the only hard part, Applying a clear finish over the stain just takes good planning and a eye for detail. Use polyurethane. If you don't have pieces to practice on, I'd get a professional quote. If you have a professional do it, specify that they use a conversion varnish, which is the normal finish used in the industry. <br /><br />Jeff

Consider using a dye stain for the wood as it will let the grain and figure show through. With a brownish/pinkish wood like lyptus, I think a reddish brown or cherry color will work fine. <br /><br />If the variation is slight, I think the staining operation will even things out if you use a dye. However, if it appears after a coat or two of finish that the variation needs to be equalized, you can tone the lighter areas to the darker areas with a dye based toner. If you use one of the popular dye concentrates on the market, you can use the same product for both the stain and the toner. <br /><br />Jeff

Vinyl isn't used as a stain base. You need the services of a finish rep to identify the bottlenecks and problems in your operation. This can't be done by e-mail. <br /><br />I suggest you get in touch with your ML Campbell rep since you already use their products. Also a Mohawk finish rep may be able to help "better" as they are more in tune with the needs of a refinishing shop. They can identify the problems and suggest solutions. These two companies are better with smaller shops. The big boys like Sherwin Williams and others won't deal with a small operation, although you can buy their products through SW commercial branches. <br /><br />Fisheye is common in the refinishing business. The easiest way to deal with it is to add a fisheye remover (silicone oil) to your products. If the fisheye is random, it's probably just coming from the pieces you're working on. Check your compressore and air lines, and if you don't already have good filtration (water filter, oil filter, dessicant drier) get it for your spray area. You can check for contamination in your air lines by blowing some of the compressed air on a clean piece of glass, then applying finish over it. If it fish-eyes, your compressor/air lines are the culprit.<br /><br />Your flow-over stripping supplier should have solutions for a better rinse to alleviate the contamination issues. I like Benco at www.bencosales.com<br /><br />Lastly consider joining the e-mail Refinishers Groop at http://www.alan.net/groop/index.html<br /><br />This is a cohesive group which can help out a business such as yours considerably. <br /><br />Jeff <br /><br />

Yes - complete removal ensures even staining. Unlike most - I use distilled water and a toothbrush to clean the joint thoroughly. <br /><br />After sanding, wipe the area around the glue joint with denatured alcohol to see if you've removed all the glue. Residual glue shows up as a lighter area when the wood is wet with the alcohol.<br /><br />If you missed an area when you stain, wet sand the lighter area immediately with the last grit sandpaper you used for smoothing. It's helpful if you use a wet dry version of it. Wet sand the lighter area with the paper and some of the stain and the light area should disappear. <br /><br />Jeff

Polyurethane - definitely. Apply upwards of 4-5 coats, sanding in between for best results. Thin the first two coats with 25% mineral spirits ti insure good penetration. <br /><br />Jeff

Most likely it is a solid wood substrate made from poplar or possibly gumwood. <br /><br />Try cleaning it with mineral spirits and a rag. Stubborn dirt can be removed with the mineral spirits and 0000 steel wool, but be gentle, as you may remove finish in the process. Wipe away the dirt and residue, and then apply a paste wax (use a dark colored one if the wood is a medium or dark color). Buff when dry and see if the sheen is evened out. If not, you might want to consider getting a quote for refinishing from a professional. <br /><br />JJ

The easiest finish to apply to cherry is an oil like 100% tung or boiled linseed oil. However, these aren't as durable as an oil with some varnish in it which will be harder. I suggest Waterlox Original Sealer and Finish (Ace Hardware) or Minwax Antique Oil. These finishes can be wiped on just as easily as the pure oil finishes. <br /><br />JJ

Both oak and meranti are open grained woods so they should be similar, though in the white (unfinished) meranti is a blondish color and oak is somewhat darker. The texture of meranti is more uniform, while the oaks are ring-porous, meaning the deep grain is concentrated in growth rings. Meranti almost always stained, and is sometimes referred to as "white mahogany"<br /><br />The finishing process bewteen different manufacturers may be different, depending on whether the finish is an open-pored (you can feel the grain when you drag your fingernails across the finish) or filled-pored(the finished surface is flat and smooth). An open pored finish is a little more natural looking and you can tell that it's wood. Filled pored finishes can approach the look of Formica (a "plastic" look) if done certain ways. <br />I'm assuming you're buying from a catalog, otherwise you could inspect the different finishes on a showroom floor. So it's hard to say what you should expect. The color expresso is open somewhat to interpretation by the various manufacturers, however you should expect a deep colored brown that's neither too red, too black, too orange or too yellow. The sheen (gloss, satin or flat) may be different so find out what sheen the finish is. <br /><br />As long as you're not expecting a perfect match, I think you'll be safe. <br /><br />JJ

You don't need to use oil first, however, what does give a nice-satiny smooth surface is wet-sanding two light coats of boiled linseed oil onto the cherry. You can always wet-sand the wiping poly but I find it tacks too fast. Apply a light first coat of BLO (I don't like the flood-and-let-sit, then-wipe) approach for BLO. After the first coat dries one day, wet sand the second coat with 600 grit wet dry paper. Let dry two days, then apply the wiping poly. <br /><br />JJ

No - you don't have to remove all the original dye. Simply remove the finish with a stripper, let dry, then sand the wood with 150, then 220. Remove all the dust with a water dampened rag. If the water penetrates the wood and doesn't bead up anywhere, you've got all the finish and stripper residue off. Don't worry if the color is uneven and bare wood shows in places. <br /><br />Then apply a water soluble black dye. The term aniline really isn't used much anymore so if the dye doesn't have the word aniline on the label, don't sweat it. Once the dye is dry you can apply a finish. Water based products applied with a brush or rag tend to pull water dyes up, so it's best to use an oil based finish if you plan on hand application. <br /><br />Jeff

Just seal the rosewood with 1-2 coats of dewaxed shellac (Zinsser SealCoat) and you can then apply your normal oil finish.<br /><br />Jeff

I don't know what Tuscan looks like but I can provide some insight:<br /><br />1. You cannot apply a transparent stain over whitewash - paint is the only option. <br /><br />2. You can use an oil or water based "base" paint and then apply a contrasting glaze color over it to achieve a wide variety of Old World type effects that I'm guessing the Tuscan effect falls into. <br /><br />If you go to a good paint store they should be able to provide you with more details and samples. If they don't know what "glazing over paint" is, then go to another store. We find that in our area the local "Mom and Pop" paint stores that are Benjamin Moore dealers are pretty good. <br /><br />Jeff

There's two "kinds" of shellac. The standard one has wax in it and is suitable for a sealer under solvent lacquer and alkyd and phenolic resin varnishes. The other kind is dewaxed and will work under all finishes. Zinsser sells Sealcoat which is dewaxed. The waxy version they sell are called Bullseye Amber and Clear. <br /><br />I personally find brushing lacquer hard to use. The aerosol spray cans are fine for small projects but not yours. You could always step up to the plate and purchase an inexpensive import HVLP spray gun to spray lacquer - assuming of course you have a compressor. There's water base versions which are just as good but safer to use. <br /><br />For hand application I much prefer a standard alkyd or phenolic varnish for brushing or wiping. Alkyd based Pratt and Lambert #38 can be found at good paint stores or Old Masters Super Varnish. Waterlox is a phenolic varnish and should be available at all ACE Hardware stores nationwide. <br /><br />Jeff

There really isn't a standard for a "Mission" finish. Generally speaking though, the effect is produced best on quartersawn white oak and takes into effect the large medullary rays that provide a distinctive look. <br /><br />If you want to use a wood with a diffent texture, and build in that style, I think you'd be best off dyeing the wood a light yellowy to dark yellowy brown color without any strong red or orange undertones. Seal that dye in with lacquer sanding sealer, scuff coat, then apply a warm, dark chocolately brown colored glaze. This will highlight any natural texture in the plywood (I've never seen Sande, so I can't vouch for the texture). Then apply several low satin or flat clear topcoats. <br /><br />Jeff

The largest current use of shellac is as a sealer. It has the ability to seal in knots, contamination, and stains when refinishing (you put another finish over the shellac). It's used extensively by painters (in a pigmented version) to seal in grafitti and other stains when repainting in latex. <br /><br />50+ years ago, finishers used either shellac for a fast dry finish or varnish when they wanted durability. Nowadays, these products have been replaced by fast dry lacquers and polyurethane. <br /><br />You might want to check out an on-line article I wrote about shellacs many uses here: http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/shellac.htm<br /><br />Jeff

After sanding, you have two options. <br /><br />If using an oil based poly or floor varnish (McCloskey GymSeal is an example of the former and Waterlox the latter) you can expect a little deepening from the color of the finish. See if you can experiment on an hidden area to test for color. If the color isn't dark enough you can use a dewaxed shellac as a pre-sealer in one of the darker grades (typically called orange or garnet). Garnet is the darkest. <br /><br />This is not a stain in the conventional sense, but does have the ability to punch up the grain and darken it. After drying scuff sand, vacumn the residue and then apply your oil based poly or varnish which will darken it a bit more.<br /><br />If you prefer using a waterbase finish, these typically have very little or no color at all, and the dewaxed shellac can be used as a pre-seal as well. <br /><br />Jeff

If the durability required calls for it, absolutely. Floors, kitchen tables, kids furniture and such all would benefit from poly. <br /><br />The objection to poly is that it sometimes has a "plastic" look. If the project you're finishing doesn't require it, I lean more towards an alkyd (like Pratt and Lambert 38) or phenolic (like Waterlox) varnish. <br /><br />Most people consider the best looking film finishes to be solvent lacquer and shellac, but neither of these have the durability of varnish or poly. Picking a finish is all about trade-offs. Gaining durability usually means sacrificing things like dry time, lingering odor and ability to repair at a later date. However durability is the main requirement, so use that as the number one criteria. <br /><br /><br />Jeff

While either species can be used as long as you use the right color stain, red oak is a better choice because most store samples are prepared using red oak. Just pick the color from the samples that suits you. <br /><br /><br />Jeff

Latex paint isn't appropriate as the resin that's used (usually vinyl based) isn't hard nor tough enough for the type of contact that furniture is exposed to. It also "blocks", meaning things like books will stick to it. Some finishers get around this by applying a clear waterbased finish over the latex. Assuming you can find products that are compatible with each other that works fine. <br /><br />A better choice is to use a 100% acrylic water based paint. These are usually sold as trim paints. One particular barnd I've used is Sherwin Williams ProClassic Series. <br /><br />Milk paint is an old paint recipe that was resurrected in the 1980's and brought to market due to the restoration craze that started then. It has a charming, unsophisticated look but isn't one of the easiest products to use and apply. It requires mixing, the pigments settle quickly and it has to be stirred constantly, and requires that you use it within a specified time frame. It's also expensive. On small items it's fine, but I wouldn't want to do large pieces or areas with it. On the plus side it's odorless and dries quickly. It also has a "look" that isn't duplicated with modern paints. It will waterspot easily so it has to be coated with some type of protective clear finish if it's around water. <br /><br />JJ

Please post your response in the "Ask the Hardwood Plywood Expert" forum - Ang Schramm. <br /><br />Jeff

Usually the open grained woods like oak stain pretty well, but the plywood may come out a little darker than than the solid oak. You can lighten the stain up by wiping it more agrresively or using some mineral spirits on a clean rag (before the stain dries)<br /><br />For edging, the hot melt type veneer tape will stain the same, but a solid wood edging might be a bit off. You can always double stain - meaning apply a second coat of the stain to the lighter areas after the first application dries completely.<br /><br />Jeff

I don't know exactly what you mean by "traditional" but if you mean historic colors of the past you might try the Williamsburg collection here:<br /><br />http://www.martinsenour.com/color_collections/williamsburg.asp<br /><br />Typically a primer is used first which is compatible with your paint. Most "lines" like the Williamsburg will have a primer that will work. <br /><br />Jeff

Try this company - Touch Up Depot @ 1-866-TUDEPOT. They carry toners in aerosol form and glazes. Remember, toners have to be sprayed while glazes are typically applied by hand. <br /><br />Jeff

It could indeed be a residue of some sort. It could be residual wax or more than likely wax from the stripper, which is put in to retard evaporation of the stripper and increase it's working time. <br /><br />I would clean off the Minwax with lacquer thinner. Then clean it again with lacquer thinner and steel wool once you've got down to bare wood. This will remove all types of residue both from prior use and the refinishing process (lacquer thinner contains three solvent families)<br /><br />Jeff

I hardly ever use oil based or pigment type stains as the main colorant, as they tend to accentuate the early wood more than the winterwood which looks artificial to my way of thinking. <br />What I typically use is a water soluble dye to set the undertone, seal and then use oil or water based glazes to bring the final color up. This allows me the most control over the color and eliminates splotching, as long as the color of the dye is not too datk. If I'm using a dark colored dye, I usually spray apply the water dye and try to avoid wiping it. <br /><br />Jeff

Old shellac based records can be dissolved in denatured alcohol, though I seriously doubt it would make a great finish. <br /><br />Jeff

Any good quality paste wax will make it smoother to the touch but may affect the uniformity of the sheen when the surface is in certain lighting situations. I'm unclear as to whether you had a specific question about sealing the edges, so please clarify if possible. <br /><br />Jeff

Plywood is a great way to make table tops. You have to check with your hardwood/plywood supplier for a formaldehyde free or low formaldehyde product. "Natural Plus" (CFP Product) is low formaldehyde, and you might be able to special order it in a formaldehyde free grade. <br /><br />You may be able to sort through sheets to get the best edges, but some damage during transport and handling is expected. Shops re-machine edges for this purpose and it also guarantees a good glue bond, as the edges may pick up dirt. If you do glue solid edging on an un-machined edge, sand it with 150 and a hard block to get a good glue bond. If you lack the ability to do this, a friendly shop owner in your area may be able to help out. <br /><br />Jeff

I never said it's "superior". For certain effects like deep and dark uniform colors it's better to use dye over pigment stains. In fact Minwax incorporates both dyes and pigments in their products. <br />Using pigment or pigment/dye only allows manufacturers to produce an interior/exterior stain which is probably the main reason it's used, not to mention the cost per pound is less. Another reason is that dyes overall aren't as lightfast as pigments, particularly the oil soluble dyes that would have to be used in oil based wiping stains. <br /><br />I agree that dyes are harder to find. They're certainly not available at the DIY and hardware stores. However any store that specializes in woodworking suplies like Woodcraft or Rockler should have them. <br /><br />Jeff

I am unclear as to exactly what you want to do. I suggest you call the technical assistance folks for Columbia flooring at: (800) 654-8796 <br />

The procedure would be exactly the same as for gloss with the following substituition: <br /><br />Typically a guitar is a high build finish where the finisher applies upwards of 6-9 coats over 3 days and then level sands and polishes to gloss. Follow gloss practice - meaning grain fill open grained woods with the Target grain filler mentioned on their website, build 3 coats of gloss USL the first spray day, let dry overnight. Sand that with 600 grit, then apply 2-3 more gloss coats. Let dry overnight then sand with 600 grit. Remove all dirt and abrasive particles with a water base compatible tack cloth (not the ones usually sold in paint stores) or a water dampened cloth. Instead of applying more gloss on the third session, apply 1 coat satin, let dry and evaluate the surface. If it looks good leave it. If not appply 1 more coat. <br /><br />Off the gun satin finishes are very problematic. You need to be extremely meticulous in straning and preparing your final coats of finish and apply them in as clean a spray area as possible. I find spraying water on the floor and walls of my spray booth right before spraying the lasat coat really helps. Also remember to blow or tack rag off all the dirt on your clothes, hands and arms.<br /><br />If you fail to get a good off the gun stain finish you can lighly abrade the pimples and dust or other contaminants with 1500 grit sandpaper, then follow up with a product called Abralon (Mirka abrasives)in 2000 grit. Abralon is silicon carbide grit attached to an open cell foam pad. You can use it by hand or with a grip hand pad. <br /><br />JJ

I haven't heard of a product such as that, however you may want to run it past the folks who run the This Old House website<br /><br />JJ

The standard pre-finished product does not use an exterior rated glue. You can specila order it that way, but you need to contact a Columbia distributor. <br /><br />Assuming you're using an exterior rated plywood and it's edgebanded with an exterior rated glue, spar varnish or an exterior 2 component urethane will work for your clear coat. The latter will hold up the longest. <br /><br />Jeff

I don't recognize the description, but I'm sure it's carnauba wax sticks that woodturners use for finishing. Try:<br /><br />http://www.bealltool.com/<br /><br />for carnauba sticks. Their Wood Buff "system" works very well if you have a slow speed grinder. Many other woodturning catalogs carry the stuff. <br /><br />Jeff

I would look into a penetrating stain/finish that uses iron oxides or transpraent iron oxide as the pigment color. Varnishes will crack and peel in no time. <br /><br />Jeff

The best way I know of is to disguise it by painting on a thin stain or color using a small artists brush. Go to an art store and get a #4 artists brush and some burnt umber and raw sienna oil colors. Mix the two colors together until it approimates the color of the teak and then mix it with some of the oil you use for finishing. Using the long, flat side of the brush, brush along the edge until the white glue line is gone.<br /><br />Jeff

I'm not 100% sure but it was probably Briwax. This product is sold through many specialty woodworking stores like Woodcraft and Rockler. You don't have to use Briwax. Other good brands include Antiquax, Mylands and Liberon. The brands I mentioned all have different colors available. <br /><br />JJ

I would warn you against using any oil product on the inside, particularly tung oil - the smell of which will transfer to the clothes. My vote would be for shellac which will still bring out the shimmer in the wood without darkening it too much. On the outside - if you wish, you could use a light coat of tung oil or boiled linseed oil first, then apply shellac over that when it's dry. However, oils on wenge tend to turn it very dark, which I don't necessarily like. Don't use any finish on the cedar. <br /><br />I would test for proper oil drying with the Jatoba, as some tropicals have substances which impede curing of oil finishes. You should be fine with the wenge, but I've never finished any Jatoba. <br /><br />Jeff

Generally, to emphasize varying grain and grain pattterns in a bowl, try a wiping varnish like Waterlox Original Sealer and Finish. Shellac also works well and sometimes using the oil first, letting it dry and then applying shellac really creates depth and luster. If the oil makes it "splotchy" looking then try just shellac. <br /><br />Jeff

Poly and other tough finishes aren't easily repaired. If the scratches are light (you can barely feel them with a fingernail dragged across) you can use rubbing compounds like pumice and rottenstone or automotive pastes to remove the scratches. If the scratches are deeper - the only thing you can do is to wet sand the scratches out without going all the way through the finish. Use 400-600 grit. Once the scratch is gone, you can apply a coat of two of poly in the correct sheen to bring it to the right sheen level - (satin, semi-gloss, flat, etc.). <br /><br />This type of repair can be both time consuming and hard to do for a "perfect" look, so it may be prudent to investigate replacing the boards if possible. <br /><br />Jeff

Quick dry finishes based on shellac or lacquer can do that. Try spinning on a light coat of boiled linseed oil first, and burnish it with wood shavings. Then apply the polish. Also make sure you use the slowest speed setting on your lathe. <br /><br />Jeff

Strip the finish off the door with a semi-paste paint and varnish remover and follow the instructions for removing and cleaning the old stripper off. When dry sand with 150 grit. Apply a wood bleach known as oxalic acid to the door, rinse with plenty of water to remove the residue, and then sand with 180 (wear a dust mask). The oxalic acid will remove the gray and black stain from the wood. Several appliocations may be necessary, and apply it to the whole door. <br /><br />The damage you see mostly at the bottom is from moisture wicking up through the bottom of the door, where it meets the ground. Seal this bottom (edge only) with 2 part epoxy, thinning to brushing consistency with denatured alcohol. When dry apply a spar or marine grade varnish. A penetrating oil finish can be used but requires periodic re-application. <br /><br />Jeff

Glazes should not be sanded unless it's part of the effect you want to create (i.e. a distressed, worn through effect)<br /><br />JJ

As long as 24 hours hasn't passed, no. If yes a light in bewteen coat sanding is OK. <br /><br />Jeff

As long as the glaze is dry, you can thin it to whatever ratio suits you. Try 50:50 to start. Use a very soft bristle brush or a foam brush and avoid overworking the varnish. <br /><br />PS - It will be hard to tell if the varnish/mineral spirits will lift the varnish or not. It wouldn't hurt to do a sample piece to judge. If you want to make sure it won't lift, you could apply a light coat of aerosol shellac over the glaze to "lock" it in. <br /><br />Jeff

The best way is to apply small pieces of solid wood "edging". These strips are usually 1/8-1/4 thick pieces of the same species that's used for the plywood. For blondewood use poplar or maple. Make it a little over the thickness of the plywood. The edging is glued on with clamps and I would recommend a waterproof glue for your application such as Titebond II, polyurethane or epoxy glue. After the glue sets the excess edging is sanded flush with the plywood. Edging adds durability and a more solid appearance to the door, and provides better holding power for fasteners. <br /><br />If you lack the equipment to do this, you can purchase a hot melt adhesive tape. Cut it to length and iron on the tape to edge the plywood door. I use a J roller to set the tape down after heating it with the iron. It's trimmed after cooling with a sharp chisel or special cutting tool. This is very easy to do. <br /><br />Jeff

Contact the dealer the floor was purchased from for assistance in solving this issue. Deep scratches are difficult to repair, so it may be best to remove the affected boards and replace them. <br /><br />Jeff

You want very fine grade.<br /><br />Yes, but like I say the glaze must be completely dry before you wipe the varnish.<br /><br />JJ

Oil glazes are applied over lacquer bases all the time. Sand the lacquer with 320 grit, then scotchbrite with maroon synthetic pad to give it tooth. Apply your oil glaze, but before it fully sets up (usually 2-6 hours), lock it down with a wet coat of lacquer. I'm assuming you're spraying here. If not, proceed as above, but let the glaze dry 48 hours and then apply an oil varnish in the sheen you wish. I wouldn't brush a lacquer finish over an oil glaze as you'll probably pull it up. <br /><br />Jeff

Many finishers simply mix 5 or 30 minute epoxy with some of the saved sawdust, which should match the wood exactly. <br /><br />Jeff

The replacement hardware and things like leather handles can be found at Van Dyke Restorers: 1-800-558-1234. <br /><br />We typically clean the trunk with minerals spirits, replace the hardware, then follow up with several applications of a 1 pound cut shellac. Then paste wax. Trunks should never be stripped chemically. <br /><br />Jeff

Assuming you do not know what the existing finish is, you can safely apply most oil based varnishes such as Old Masters Super Varnish, Pratt and Lambert Clear #38 and Waterlox brands. Clean the surfaces well with soapy water, then scuff the surface with a very fine (maroon color) scotchbrite pad. Remove the dust and apply the varnish. <br /><br />This will also work for most water based finishes but check with the manufacturer first. <br /><br />If you want to apply oil based polyurethane, clean as above, then apply a "tie" coat of dewaxed shellac. You can get this stuff pre-mixed under the SealCoat name, made by Zinsser. <br /><br />Jeff

What you need to do is called "in-painting" or touch up. There are a wide variety of products you can use to do this, but unfortunately little in the way of instruction. If you can get a hold of Fine Woodworking, issue #166, I did a comprehensive article with photos on how to do it. But here's what you do in a nutshell. You'll need from an art store, a #1 and #4 artist round brush, and several "earth" colors. Look at the colors called sienna, umber, ochre and van dyke brown to match the background color of your wood and the darker grain lines in the wood. Use water base acrylic colors. <br /><br />Block out the background using an earth color and the #4, let it dry and then paint in the fine dark grain lines with the #1. Apply a coat of thin finish, evaluate the color and then make adjustments if necessary.<br /><br />You can get a back issue of Fine Woodworking by calling 800-888-8286<br /><br />Jeff

It should eventually dry, though most consumer oil stains may take awhile, particularly over semi-sealed finishes or in colder temperatures. I'd give it another week and re-test the cure by wiping it gently with a soft clean cloth. When no color comes up on the cloth you should be safe to topcoat. <br /><br />Jeff

The answer depends somewhat on the finish used. You should try and dig up the finish used and contact the manufacturer for instructions. Some finishes can simply be re-sanded (screened) and re-coated effectively. Others do not repair well. <br />If you're not sure what the finish is, a system manufactured by Varathane (Renewal) can be used. It has great instructions and you should be able to get info on it at Home Depot. <br /><br />Jeff<br />

You have undoubtably the harshest exposure for a clear finish to withstand. Assuming you used a consumer grade spar varnish, about the only thing you could do at this point is to go to a marine store and ask them for a clear varnish with UVA's. I'd avoid urethanes unless they are specifically called "linear urethane" or "aliphatic urethane". With a good marine varnish, you may only see 2-3 years at the most, provided you apply 6-8 coats. If you keep an eye on things, you can simply sand after 2 years and re-coat. Good marine varnishes are engineered to "erode" at the top layer and you can re-coat, assuming the finish isn't cracked or blistered badly. <br /><br />Before finishing, strip the door completely, re-sand and do any repairs. If the laminate is peeling off, though you have a serious issue if you cannot re-glue it. If you re-glue, consider epoxy. <br /><br />Paint will get you longer service - possibly 8-10 years if you do it right. <br /><br />Another option, and the most durable clear coat known to man is a two component aliphatic urethane. These are almost always spray applied finishes, though I have seen brushable ones available at marine supply houses. A professional door finisher should be able to do this job for you. Expect 10+ years with this type of <br /><br />Jeff

You should be able to do anything you want with it. Painting is certainly the easiest and fastest, but it sounds like a shame to cover up nice veneer. Consider having a panel stripped and sanded and then evaluate the color. If it's still too dark, it can be lightened up using a 2-part wood bleach. Different color stains and dyes can be used to counteract strong hues like orange with blue. <br /><br /><br />Jeff

It depends on several things - how many of these you have to do and what level of quality you want to expect. <br /><br />If you want the best look, I wouldn't use the pre-finished material as I just see no easy way to get the solid edgeing flush without possibly damaging the UV and it will be hard to feather or blend the finish in. I'd consider using unfinished ply. <br /><br />On the other hand you could use white glue and tape the edging on exactly flush and where you want it on the prefinished ply. The tape allows a bit of finessing the joint and the white glue gives you more open time. Remove the glue residue and finesse the fit with a sharp scraper pr chisel. For a finish similar in protective qualities and look, I'd use a water white conversion varnish with a vinyl sealer. <br /><br />Jeff<br /><br />PS - It may be worthwhile running this same question past Ang on the other forum.

The water base stains won't impart the orange/yellow color with the conditioner. They're just as durable but the overall durability comes from the clear finish used to protect the stain. While I have no direct experience using Minwax polycrylic, I think it would OK to use for your cabinets. <br /><br />Jeff

The sun will do the most damage to any clear finish. I suggest you look at a 2 part aliphatic urethane which is suitable for wood. The only one I've used is from Gemini Coatings and is available through Touch Up Depot in Texas. 1-866-TUDEPOT. Many formulations used for cars are also quite good and can be used on wood. <br /><br /><br /><br />Jeff

First determine whether or not the original finish enhances the value. If not - stripping and refinishing is the easiest way for a novice and will yield the best results. Use a refinisher stripper like Formby's to remove the old finish. Sand to remove the light marks. Then use oxalic acid wood bleach to remove the water stains if you can still see them (they'll be dark). Clean with water, and then re-stain and finish using varnish or shellac. The original was probably shellac. You could also use lacquer which is what we would use and may also be the original finish (nitrocellulose lacquer). <br /><br />Jeff

Veneer is no different than refinishing solid wood. You just can do much is the way of aggressive sanding, but that shouldn't be a problem as kitchen doors usually don't take too much in the way of a physical beating. Remove the finish using a stripper, clean the residue off with denatured alcohol, then re-sand with 180, stain and then finish. Just go easy on the sanding - and you may want to consider doing it by hand. <br /><br />JJ

I don't know brand names specific to Canada, but I would use a water base acrylic. You shouldn't have to prime it either. White paint is an excellent choice becuase of the UV protection afforded by the pigment. Contact Sherwin Williams. <br /><br />JJ

Caskets are spray finished using "casket lacquer" which is usually a standard nitrocellulose lacquer with wax added. The wax rises to the top of the cured lacquer imparting a waxed, silky feel. I couldn't find anyone making specifically a casket lacquer, but you could try Star Finishing products - Toll Free: 1-888-STARFIN - Fax: 828-431-4584. They make a product called Buffkote which you could try. <br /><br />The process involves a straightforward lacquer schedule using spray equipment. <br /><br />Jeff<br />

I'll confer with technical at Columbia Flooring and get back to you.<br /><br />OK - Im back. You can try mineral spirits and see if this will remove the overspray, or you can try the Columbia Flooring urethane remover. If these items are used and successfully remove the overspray then your warranty is still in place. However, any damage that might occur during this operation, the contactor that caused the damage will be responsible. (These items should not harm the floor if used correctly; follow all directions on product label). If this does not work depending on the number of planks involved plank replacement can be done without bothering the structure of the flooring and the floor will perform as intended, or a screen and recoat can be done to remove the over spray. To obtain a full assessment please contact your local distributor in which the flooring was purchased. I would strongly suggest you contact the person below at Columbia Flooring, who has been made aware of your situation. <br /><br />Tammy I. Miller <br />Claims Administrator <br />Columbia Flooring <br />100 Maxine Road <br />Danville, VA 24541 <br />1.800.535.3963 ext: 3142 <br />tmiller@columbiaflooring.com <br /><br /><br /><br />Regards<br /><br />Jeff<br />

If it's to be used for preparing food, clean it with some bleach and water (1:1) followed by a good scrubbing with scotchbrite and dishwashing detergent. If it's just for furniture, you can remove the stains by full strength bleach, rinsing with plenty of clean water when dry, then perhaps some wood bleach (oxalic acid) to remove any water stains. Do this after the planing or sanding. Most real butcher blocks weren't finished so you can leave it as is, or wipe some mineral oil on it. Linseed oil, tung oil or whatever you wish can be used if you want more durability and luster. <br /><br />Jeff

These marks are usually an indication of iron stain, caused by iron salts in water reacting with tannins naturally present in the wood. They're easily removed by a specific type of wood bleach known as oxalic acid. You can get a small jar of the dry crystals at Sherwin Williams and other good paint and hardware stores under the Savogran name<br /><br />http://www.savogran.com/Retail_Products/Repairing_Products/repairing_products.html<br /><br />Sand the wood and remove the dust. The wood should be clean enough so it will accept water. Mix the dry crystals with water at the ratio of a tablespoon per pint warm water. Apply the solution over the entire surface, not just the marks. Several applications may be necessary and wait overnight for the full effect. Wipe the surface 3 times with distilled water to remove all traces of dry crystals becuase you don't want the crystals airborne when you sand later. I ALWAYS wear a dust mask when mixing the dry crystals and sanding the wood after bleaching. <br /><br />Jeff

When bringing together the colors of various species of woods, it's possible to simply seal the woods, then apply different colors of pigment wiping stains to equalize the color. Gel stains are very easy to control and you can "layer" the color by applying more than one coat of the stain. Look at Bartley stains becuase I like their colors and they are easy to use. Dyes can be used as well and the advantage of a dye is it won't exaggerate the different textures. Work from the light colors to the dark one you want. I prefer water dyes because they're easier to work with. <br /><br />Jeff

Old patinated maple looks good with just about anything. Oil based varnishes and poly would be used for durability and an added ambering from the oil component, while a water based poly will make it look like it does with no finish (ie doesn't deepen or amber. Shellac is also a good choice as it fits the period. <br /><br />Jeff

You can do it, assuming the vinyl is glued down and in good shape. You'll have to clean the vinyl very well and remove all traces of dirt and wax. I'd pretest for adhesion of the adhesive (your best bet is a urethane). Place some of the adhesive in an inconspicuous area and let it dry 24 hours. If it dries rigid and you have to chisel it to remove it, you're good to go. If it attacks the vinyl and eats a hole in it or doesn't stick, your not, and the best thing to do would be to remove the vinyl. <br /><br />Or course removing the vinyl and gluing to the slab would eliminate any possible issues. <br /><br />Jeff

I'd have to see a sample but since oak doesn't splotch naturally the culprit probably is something that splattered on it. It could be any number of things, such as glue, finish or oil. I'd recommend washing the plywood with lacquer thinner which will remove oils, then sanding well to remove anything like glue or finish. Try a small part of a sheet first to see if it will work first. <br /><br />Jeff

The Watco will not match the color and look of the Valspar product. Are you saying you can or cannot spray? <br /><br />If you cannot spray the closest product in looks you can apply by hand would be a low sheen water based poly or lacquer. A low sheen oil varnish may be close, but most CV's are water white and I think the varnish may be too amber on natural maple. If the maple is stained, I think either product will work. <br /><br />If you have spray equipment you can get CV's from a Sherwin Williams Commercial branch or ML campbell dealer in your area. Be careful when using these products. <br /><br />Jeff

Poly has finicky adhesion qualities and can be dicey over another finish unless you know exactly what's in the lacquer. If the lacquer has stearates or wax additives, it may not stick. However, as long as you clean it and scuff it, give it a shot if that's all you got in the way of finish. <br /><br />JJ

Unfortunately it's difficult to advise to because non-glossy factory finishes are produced one of two ways, either by rubbing with abrasives or by spraying satin or flat finishes. <br /><br />What you did was you used a polishing cream which polished the area where the scratch was up to gloss (made it shiny). It's very difficult to remove scratches by rubbing with a fine compound. The way we do it is to use a very fine sandpaper 800 grit wrapped around a small block and feather sand the scratch. Feather sand means rather than sanding in one direction, keep changing directions and feather the sanding out a bit into a larger area. This avoids a visible depression in the finish when you look at the table in backlighting. Once that's done you have to restore a consistent sheen to the surface by rubbing with 0000 steel wool. This produces a "brushed metal" type of satin sheen, and you have to be careful to rub in very straight lines, typically with the grain. Another way is to use a product called Abralon which can be used after the 800 grit. Start with 1000 g and go up to 4000 or until you get the sheen that you want. The Abralon puts a random scratch pattern which looks more like a satin or flat finish. <br /><br />So that's the way we do it. My advice is to call a pro in and have a look. There is nothing in the world that makes up for the experience that an on-site touch up man has when dealing with the nuances of factory finishes. You can easily destroy your finish if you don't know what you're doing. If you need a referral, call the National Hotline Repair Service at 1-800-332-2747 and they will match you up with a pro in your area. <br /><br />Jeff

Certainly water base dyes splotch less than oil or solvent based stains, but nonetheless, there is no product I know of that guarantees a splotch free stain job on all wood species. <br /><br />There is a conditioner for water based dyes. It's thinned water base finish and you can buy a pre-packaged product like Minwax water base stain conditioner or make your own from a 50:50 mix of water and water base finish. For your pine, sand to 180, then apply the conditioner liberally, wipe up the excess, and allow it to dry 4-6 hrs. Sand again by hand with the grain with 220, remove the dust then apply your dye. <br /><br />PS - There is a great article on splotch free pine in the latest issue of American Woodworker Magazine. <br /><br />Jeff

The only variables that would cause this to happen are:<br /><br />1. If the two sides weren't sanded to the same grit. <br /><br />2. Two different stain or finish lots were used. <br /><br />3. The stain or finish products were applied differently; as in one side the stain was wiped and the other side was sprayed. <br /><br />4. It could also be lighting. Many times the tops will be a different color than the sides just due to the angle of lighting. <br /><br />5. Grain. If the sides are oriented differently, one may appear darker and deeper than the other when viewed from the same angle. <br /><br />Jeff

I think the best looking floor finishing is done with Waterlox products here<br /><br />www.waterlox.com<br /><br />They can refer a retailer in your area or -- I do think they sell direct. If you want to stay with water base, there's is really good and if you use a pro, they may sell you the cross-linker for it. I believe they will not sell the cross-linker to a non-pro. <br /><br />Their oil based finishes are killer and unlike a urethane finish are easier to repair if scratched or damaged. <br /><br />Jeff

Many water base finishes these days can be put directly over fully cured Waterlox, Danish oil or boiled linseed oil without adhesion problems. In the past we've always advised folks to put a coat of dewaxed shellac over the oil product. <br />The key is fully cured and that may mean 24-48 hours for the oil. Waterlox should definitely be OK to seal in 12-24. <br /><br />JJ

You cannot do anything to fix the sanding problem unless you start over. Even paint may telegraph the problem. I'd put on a matte or flat clear finish as the finisher suggested which will mitigate the effect the most. The only thing you can do is to diffuse the look of the problem, unless you want to start over. <br /><br />You can touch up the black or dark areas, by painting with artists oil colors to paint out the dark areas with a lighter color. Then put your clear finish over the touch ups. <br /><br />JJ

The percentage of wax in particleboard is very low, around .1%. From a standpoint of stain formulations, I don't think it makes any difference if you use a solvent base stain.<br /><br />If using a water formulation there may be a differenece in how the stain takes and spreads, but I haven't seen it. <br /><br />JJ

It's used on cherry and mahogany mostly as a chemical stain. It's available from specialty finish suppliers as a dry orange powder which is dissolved in water.<br /><br />My book Hand Applied Finishes as well as the video Coloring Wood covers it pretty well.<br /><br />Jeff

Plastic resin glue is the unfortunate name used to describe a type of glue based on urea-formaldehyde. It's typically sold as a powder which is activated by water and forms a very ridgid (non-creeping) bond. It is the glue of choice for most veneering applications. <br />A modified type of this is sold under the name Unibond, and comes as a liquid and a powder. This alleviates some of the problems with the water content in the former water/powder mix, which can cause the veneer sheets to curl when they hit the water/powder glue mix. <br /><br />DAP Weldwood plastic glue (the powder you mix with water) can be purchased at most hardware stores and home centers.<br /><br />Unibond 800 was developed by a manufacturer of vacuum veneering presses. http://www.vacupress.com/veneerglue.htm<br /><br />Jeff

Oil can indeed create an uneven look on cherry. Assuming other variables like moisture content are within finishing parameters, I'd look at a finish like dewaxed shellac which shouldn't splotch. As an aside, a sealer coat of 1 pound cut shellac applied before oil based finishes should minimize the splotchy look. <br /><br />JJ

Do you need help in transferring the procedures to production work? I'm not really clear as to what you're asking. Can you be a bit more specific?<br /><br />Jeff

Either the panels were not correctly finished in terms of adequate film thickness on exposed edges, or a moisture sensitive finish was used. If the problem is just at the edges, you could sand and clean the area, then apply several coats of a moisture resitant varnish like Waterlox. Poly may have problems adhering to a questionable finish. <br /><br />Professional finishers handle stuff like this all the time. You may want to contact a kitchen design or sales outlet in your area and get a recommendation. <br /><br />JJ

Maple can splotch, or stain unevenly with dark, random patches of stain. To combat this there are many techniques and products, but I'll cover two which almost always work. <br /><br />1. Look into using a gel stain. These thick bodied stains generally work well on maple, and they'll also allow you to apply several coats to parts that stain lighter (sometimes the plywood stains darker than the solid wood)<br /><br />2. Washcoat before staining. This means you apply a product called pre-stain, stain controller or just thinned finish prior to staining. A company like Minwax makes one for both their water and oil based stains. Most pro's use shellac or thinned lacquer or glue size, but the basic concept is the same. Sealing or pre-loading the wood surface makes stains lay at the top more evenly.<br /><br />JJ

Polyurethane is the most durable finish that can be applied by hand. Certainly waterbase versions have the additional benefit of little color, non yellowing and no odor, provided the right urethane resins are used (aliphatic)<br /><br />Your comment "the finish remains textured" indicates that your finish quality "off the brush" wasn't what you wanted. And 6 coats of any finish starts to give wood a thick applied "plastic" look. <br /><br />If you want to improve the look of the 4 coats, just rub out the finish. Using 600 grit sandpaper, sand the texture out and then use some gray scotchbrite or 0000 steel wool with some soapy water to rub out the finish. You could follow up with some paste wax for more shine. <br /><br />If you're using satin finish try this, since we typically don't rub satin finishes. <br /><br />Sand the texture out using 600 grit, then scothbrite (gray). Wipe all the residue off. Thin your Flecto with 10 percent water and wipe on the finish using a clean absorbant cloth. Wipe the finish just like you brush, and don't go back over any area. You may be surprised at the finish quality you get with this method. <br /><br />JJ

Actually the veneer slicing operation solves a lot of common finishing problems that occur with solid wood. Tropical woods like teak and rosewood, as well as aromatic red cedar, have oils which impede proper drying of finishes. These compounds are broken down by the steaming/boiling process prior to slicing into veneer. <br />White and red oaks can create problems with water based finishes due to the tannin content, but again, tannin is solubilized in water and much is removed by boiling. <br /><br />Jeff<br />

Exotic woods often contain natural oils that Mother Nature put there to help these species cope with fungal and bacterial problems from living life in the Rainforest. These oils can impair adhesion of glues, particulaly water base PVA's like white and yellow glue. Some woodworkers wipe the glue joint with acetone, but this may not always work. Most folks agree that epoxy, resorcinal or polyurethane glue is best for oily woods. <br /><br />The term Clear extender unfortunately is meaningless unless you say what it's for. Extender for what? Glue, finish, stain or glaze? <br /><br />Jeff

That's correct. Any open-grained wood should be grain filled so you can get a glass smooth surface. Grain fillers come in both water base and oil based versions. Basically you pack the filler into the grain, while wiping or removing the excess from the intermediate areas. With water based filler you can stain afterwards. Oil based fillers generally are applied after staining and sealing, but there's always different techniques practiced. Here's two "recipes"<br /><br />1. A particularly nice mahogany finsh can be done by using a dark brown or almost black water based filler, removing it, then applying a natural or lightly tinted oil stain base. Then onto clear lacquer or varnish topcoats. <br /><br />2. Put some reddish colored oil stain into some brown oil based paste filler and apply it to the mahogany as per the instructions on the can. I like to thin the first coat so it fills better as mahogany has a spongey cellular material in the pores which makes thick fillers bridge the pore cavity. Then go ahead and apply the clear finish. <br /><br />Jeff

There are some things you can do to minimize the chance of a customer getting an iron reaction. You could bring the pH up on the wood by applying an alkaline solution prior to final sanding. If the customer's wood has a higher pH there is a less likely chance of tannin reaction with their water. However, you cannot control the water that a customer uses, so finishing folks like me tell people to only put distilled water on the wood. <br /><br />You can minimize your in-plant processing problems by making your water a lower pH, say around 3-4 or switch to de-ionized water. 3 tablespoons household white vinegar in a quart of water culd be a simple trial<br /><br />JJ

You can, but stick with a poly and make sure you sand or steel wool the prior coat before application. Do not put lacquer over an oil based finish. <br /><br />Jeff

You could certainly isolate the tung oil application as a sealer, then apply a varnish over it. However, there's no need to do this if you use a tung oil based varnish to begin with. Waterlox is one that will generate the depth that you get with tung, plus the hardness you get durability-wise with a resin varnish. <br /><br />Some finishers make their own concoctions by using 1 part interior varnish, 1 part tung oil and 1 part mineral spirits. Now you've made a wipe-on-wipe off finish that's really easy to apply like tung oil, but has some better durability. However, pure varnish is better if durability is the major criteria.<br /><br />Jeff

I would consider a transparent penetrating finish such as tung, linseed or other drying oil for your application. It will seal the wood and possibly bring back some of the color. You may want to look at Penofin here.<br /><br />http://www.penofin.com/penofin.htm<br /><br />A product with a UVA may help minimize any further damage from the sun. These products should be re-applied every couple of years or so. <br /><br />JJ

Sanding is a good way to clean most anything off the surface of the wood, but some oils may remain behind. If you suspect machine or some other type of oil contaminant, wipe the surface after sanding with naphtha to remove any oil base product. If you will be using a water base finish, I'd go the extra step of wiping the surface with denatured alcohol after the naphtha.<br /><br />Solvent wiping is also a good way to remove the swarf, which is the mixture of sawdust and abrasive grit that breaks off the sandpaper and gets stuck in the pores. <br /><br />Jeff

It depends on the defect. Mineral streaks and sapwood will ``even`` out and become less noticeable. However, rough or open grain will become exagerated. Any defect associated with surface texture, will become more noticeable when the stain is wiped. In these cases, its best to try and not wipe the stain.<br /><br />Jeff

I finally got to talk with the supplier and they suggest mechanical abarasion (scuff sanding) to provide mechanical adhesion. This could be done with gray scotchbrite. Any adhesion promoter would have to be tested. A standard adhesion test isn't all that hard to perform and I can provide you details if necessary. <br /><br />Keep in mind that these coatings are formulated to provide the maximum hardness and durability and as such are very difficult to adhere things to. <br /><br />JJ

The silicone and the wax is leaving a shiny residue behind that are increasing the gloss. The only thing you should use to clean is a cleaner that contains neither. Also, refrain from burnishing the surface too hard with the cleaning rag. <br /><br />I'd suggest you try and remove the Pledge with some mineral spirits and a terry cloth towel. This may or may not restore the dull appearance, as 5 degree is really low and the surface of the finish may hold onto the silicone and wax. The only thing then is to try an restore the low lsuter by rubbing with maroon scotchbrite, but since this creates sheen differently than the original finish, test in an area first. <br /><br />Cleaning in the future can be done with a slightly damp rag and some soap like Dawn.<br /><br />JJ

You can use either paint, but we suggest the following.<br /><br />1. Sand well with 240 g and clean all residue with a damp cloth <br /><br />2. Apply an alcohol (shellac) base white primer such as Zinsser Bin or Kilz to the surface and allow to dry thoroughly. <br /><br />3. Sand with 320 grit and apply your paint. <br /><br /><br /><br />JJ

At this point you need to touch up the area by blocking out the darker color. When faced with the repair you indicated, I would have used Minwax wood rebuilder, which is totally non-shrinking, and is a putty or taupe color when dry. I'd dig out a groove where the separation was, and apply the Minwax to the groove. Tape on either side so you don't get the polyester all over the place. When it's dry, sand level, and then use some artists acrylic colors to paint in the wood color. <br /><br />It will be the most invisible repair if you strip the finish and get the repair/coloring as close to the wood as possible, then apply your varnish. But I have to warn you, any repair on natural maple will probably be visible, no matter how good you are. <br /><br />PS - Not to insult you, but there's a reason commercial maple countertops are quartered side up -- the wood movement across the top is much less and it's more stable. <br /><br />JJ

The best place to start in any area in the search for a compentant restorer is by calling your local art museum. Try San Diego since it's closest. <br /><br />Jeff

I'm sorry for the delayed response, but if you call the flooring products division at 1-800-654-8796, they can provide assistance in matching the color for you. <br /><br />Jeff

I'd like to know if they are random or in specific areas like gum deposits or near splice lines. <br />I'd also like to know if the face veneer is actually separating from the core. Also the core construction would need to be known.<br /><br />This obviously shouldn't happen. The glue used in construction should be impervious to water and solvents used in finishes. <br /><br />Can you get me samples???<br /><br />Jeff Jewitt<br />c/o J B Jewitt Co<br />1935 W 96th St Unit Q<br />Cleveland Ohio 44102<br /><br /><br />Jeff

I would suggest you mix one part Minwax Ipswitch Pine into 3-4 parts Waterlox Original Finish/Sealer and apply that as a stain/sealer/finish. You can apply as many coats as you wish to build to the desired color and sheen. Once you get the right color, but need more sheen, use the finish with no stain. If you want a lower luster you can switch to the Waterlox Satin. <br /><br />Jeff

Could you provide a few more details? <br /><br />Jeff

You'll have to cut it out using chisels and a dovetail saw. It's not an easy job, and I really don't know any other way to do it.<br /><br />Jeff

Using an oil base poly or varnish works best and will pick up the least amount of color. Brushing is better than wiping if you apply a solvent based product.<br /><br />Jeff

You're right, tung oil will not be durable. Waterworks II was discontinued, but an alternative would be either a soya based alkyd varnish if you like working with oil finishes, or a water based acrylic or urethane. Both of these products are optically neutral and will not yellow. The Minwax is a combination of the two that should work fine. An example of a soya based alkyd varnish is McCloskeys Heirloom, Low VOC version.<br /><br />Putting oil finishes under some water base finishes may not be a good idea though. A very practical alternative is a very light (1 lb cut) dewaxed super blonde or dewaxed pale shellac. This will eliminate possible imcompatibilty problems. The shellac acts similar to the oil, putting some warmth and depth into the wood.<br /><br />Jeff

1. Whar makes a finish "better" than another depends on a lot of factors. Your skill level, yellowing, where you can finish, if flammability is a concern are factors. Usually though when folks ask what is the best way to finish a particlular wood, they are speaking of durability and best looking.<br /><br />A bookcase needs scracth protection from the books that are constantly slid over them. I don't think for durability and good looks, you can beat an oil based polyurethane. You can get brushing or wipe-on versions, liquids or gels. You may want to try here for an article I have on the subject<br /><br />http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/ChoosingFinish.htm<br /><br />2. To clean finished items such as kitchewn cabinets you should use cleaners that remove both oils and fats, as well as water-soluble grime like food splashes. You can use mineral spirits, followed by some warm water with a splash of Dawn detergent. Once again, try here<br /><br />http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/savingfinish.htm<br /><br /><br />Jeff

Even very old pine should be sealed with shellac or a proprietary knot sealer, usually vinyl based, before putting a finish on. Strip the finish off and follow the manufacturers recommendations for neutralizing or cleaning the stripper residue. Seal the wood with a two pound cut dewaxed shellac, if you're putting down varnish or polyurethane. Use a vinyl sealer if you use a catalyzed lacquer or lacquer.<br /><br />Jeff

Walnut Bartley gel stain contains just a hair of pigment that will make the pores darker without affecting the flat grain in-between. Plus, the gel formulation makes the product grab to the pore structure better.<br /><br />JJeff

You can safely apply most of the current water base finishes over a fully cured oil. As long as the stain dries, it should be fine, but some manufacturers may have different methods for coating an oil base. Certainly applying dewaxed shellac helps, and make sure that's dry as well. <br /><br />When you apply the filler depends mostly on what filler you use. I apply water base fillers directly to the wood. This includes the pigemented chalk and silex based fillers as well as the pure acrylic fillers sold as clear or tinted.<br /><br />Oil based fillers can also be applied directly to the wood, or over a stained and sealed surface which makes them easier to apply and wipe off. This gives the finisher a lot of control over the coloring process. This is the method I use. <br /><br />Jeff

A gray color can be mis-leading. Try wiping it with mineral spirits first and see what the color is. Sometimes just a light scrub or sanding with the solvent and gray abrasive pads (like Scotchbrite) will restore the color.<br /><br />Jeff

That's a very tough assignment. The two things I would do are:<br /><br />One: Avoid oils and oil based finishes. These really ``wet`` out the grain and will exaggerate differences in the wood. A shellac, lacquer or water based will be better. I'd spray it on. <br /><br />Two: You can selectively tone up the lighter areas with a spray gun. I use a detailing gun with a small tip, 1.0 mm or less. First, spray a sealer coat of whatever finish you'll be using or the sealer for that finish. This will give you an idea of which areas need to be toned up and which color to use. Use a dye stain mixed in with a little of the finish and selectively tone in the light areas to the dark ones. <br /><br />Three: You'll have to talk the customer into warming up the overall color for this. This means you're making the walnut a little oranger, which is probably a good thing if you're using kiln dried walnut which is a bit grayish in color anyway. <br /><br />Use a ``natural`` stain first, which is typically a yellowy/orange or amber dilute dye stain. This makes all the wood a similar undertone. If it looks OK, leave it. If not you can tone up selectively a bit. <br /><br /><br />One trick I use all the time for this problem is to tone all four edges just a tad darker with a toner. Not really dark, just a bit. Use a medium brown dye that's close to the natural color of the wood. This will form a visual ring around all four edges, which tricks the eye into seeing the whole side as uniform. This operates on the simple principle that our psychological processing of visual images prefers symmetry. In other words, we ``want`` to see uniformity. <br /><br />Jeff

The finish is a UV-cured acrylic. For finishing the edges, I'd recommend a water-white conversion varnish for similar durability. A CAB acrylic over a vinyl sealer will work, as will a waterborne acrylic if you wish to work with water. <br /><br />Jeff

Stickley uses a golden/brownish colored water soluble dye on the oak sanded to 180 with a RO sander, then hand sanded with 180 again. They apply a vinyl lacquer sanding sealer, scuff the surface with maroon synthetic steel wool, then apply an oil glaze. It may be asphaltum or Gilsonite based, but they won't elaborate. Try either a burnt umber or van dyke brown glaze and see. You tweak the final color by adjusting either the color of the dye of the color of the glaze. Then they seal again, sand, and then apply several coats of a satin nitrocellulose lacquer.<br /><br />Jeff

You are having a common problem with this finish, which is basically a slightly modified nitrocellulose lacquer. <br /><br />"Milky white" indicates blushing, which is caused by too fast a thinner being used in humid applications. You should add retarder or use a slower thinner, both of which you can get from M L Campbell.<br /><br />Jeff

Screening a floor is typically done with a rotary floor sander equipped with an abrasive ``screen`` which puts scratches in the finish so a finish put over it adheres better. Its done both when refinishing an old floor and finishing new floors. It's only done in your case when putting more finish on for repairs or other reasons. Here's a link that will help.<br /><br />http://www.todayshomeowner.com/repair/19990915_feature2.html<br /><br /><br />Jeff Jewitt

The technique of putting a finish on wood prior to staining is called washcoating. Typically the products used are thinned, fast-drying finishes like shellac or sanding sealer. Other products include glue-size, consumer type ``stain-controllers`` and woodstabilizers like Nelsonite. All four have the potential to solve your problem if used correctly.<br /><br />The problem with your varnish is that it sealed the wood surface too ``well``. The trick with washcoating and other products is to get the product thin enough to allow the stain to penetrate or bite the wood surface so it stains and adheres, but still prevent splotching. <br /><br />I would try a 1 or 1/2 pound cut shellac for your use because it's easily avaialable. We've seen excellent results as well with Glu-size which is avaialable from Franklin and Custom Pak adhesives. Both glue size and wash coats need to be sanded after complete drying and before stain application, while the Nelsonite wood stabilizer does not. Nelsonite will also keep the plywood more stable and prevents warping of solids like drawer fronts and sides during production. Information on Nelsonite can be found by calling them at 616-456-7098. Five gallons is the minimum order folks.<br /><br />JJ

Glad to help out. <br /><br />Jeff

For that table I used Honey Amber mixed at the ratio of 1 oz to 2 quarts. I sealed, then used Van Dyke Brown glaze which leaves a golden-brown color on most woods like birch. I brought the red up with a toner made from lacquer and TransTint Reddish Brown. <br /><br />Lacking spray equipment, you may want to get the red undertone on the birch with a reddish brown/honey amber mix for the first stain. <br /><br />JJ

Either will give you a smooth finish. The bubbles and bumps are usually taken care of if you thin the last coat and wipe it, brushing also works. The problem is due to particles floating around in the air and landing in the finish while it's sticky.<br /><br />You will probably get the best finish if you lighly sand off the bumps on the last coat with 600 grit sandpaper, then steel wool it with 0000.<br /><br />Jeff

A melamine glue should do it. These are specifically designed for bonding wood to melamine. Here's the product<br /><br />http://www.titebond.com/default.asp<br /><br />If you are simply bonding veneer to edgeband the exposed particleboard of melamine panels, the Titebond II waterproof should do it. <br /><br />Jeff

Use latex wood filler or putty on all the dings and scratches and gouges. Sand with 150. Then use a good brand of oil based primer, followed by an oil alkyd in your choice of color and sheen. Do not use latex on furniture. If you prefer to use waterbased products you can use an acrylic waterborne paint such as ProClassic 200 by Sherwin Williams. Use the primer recommended by Sherwin Williams for the PrClassic if you go that route.<br /><br />Jeff

The best way to remove a red organic dye is with chlorine. I use shock treatment, which is avaialable from swimming pool supply houses. Look for the ingredient ``calcium hypochlorite`` on the label. Mix several tablespoons in a pint of very hot water, let cool, then apply liberally to the wood. Make sure the wood is clean and sanded before applying. <br /><br />Jeff

x

Spraying will give you superior results and speed of finishing. Spraying also allows for toning and shading, two techniques which open up an entirely new world of finishing possibilities. Obviously the overspray is a concern, so you'll have to finish in a well-ventilated area, and if you use flammables such as lacquer, I would strongly advise you to do it outdoors, in front of an open garage door, or in a well-designed exhaust booth. You can safely apply many waterbase finishing materials with results similar to solvent lacquer, and with HVLP, you limit the overspray as well. <br /><br />Assuming you have a compressor, your stated budget will allow for the purchase of a well-designed HVLP conversion gun, and look into the LVLP guns which run off smaller compressors. Your budget will allow only a marginally good HVLP turbine driven rig. To get anything decent in this design, expect to pay 800-1000.00.<br /><br />JJ

The Danish oil is fine, but as you indicate, putting glass over it will diminish the look and feel of natural wood. I hate glass on wood, except for perhaps a desk or conference table. <br /><br />I'd suggest wiping several coats of a wiping Polyurethane over the fully cured Danish oil you wipe on the rest of the piece. Apply only one coat of the D/O to the top. Then after 3-5 days cure time, sand the danish oil top lightly with 400, then apply several coats of a wipe on poly, satin preferred. As long as you do not apply too many coats, the wood will retain a natural look, but will be more durable. <br /><br />You can apply poly to the sides and drawer fronts if you wish to match. Or you can just continue with the D/O on the sides and drawer fronts<br /><br />One note: DO NOT apply any oil or poly to the insides of the dresser or the drawer insides or outside of the drawer sides. Apply it to the front only. Oil applied on inside surfaces will transfer the smell to your clothes, even after many months. <br /><br />JJ

I would be hesitant to recommend acid on large production or production finishing. The acid really dives into the wood and is hard to completely neutralize. Some stays inside the wood and under certain circumstances may come to the surface and cause a problem. However, it has never caused a problem with me, though I must say I have primarily used it for matching new wood to old. (in restoration work). I would work with nothing stronger than a 20% solution, and make sure you heat it after applying to develop the color. I would stay away from complex finishing schedules involving multiple color applications, and be sure to completely neutralize the acid with sodium carbonate or ammonia. Shellac, nitrocellulose lacquers and most oil finishes should be OK. I'd definitely stay away from or completely test a waterborne system. <br /><br />JJ

There's quite a few books on this subject. I think a trip to the library would yield a wealth of techniques. But here's a few of my favorites.<br /><br />1. The Complete Book of Decorative Paint Techniques by Annie Sloan and Kate Gwynn<br /><br />2. Recipes for Surfaces by Mindy Drucker and Pierre Finkelstein<br /><br />3. The New Paint Magic by Jocasta Innes (Heartily recommended)<br /><br />Jeff

As a reactive coating, the UV finished panels do not touch up as easily as single component nitrocellulose lacquers. There is no ``burn-in`` of new to old finish. <br />However, most repair folks who run into catalyzed and urethanes, can do a manageable job. <br /><br />Mohawks Pre-cat aerosols as well as the Konig line of touch up products will work pretty well. Use the product thats recommended for catalyzed varnish, and make sure it is a non-yellowing resin (like acrylic) so it ages the same as the original coating.<br /><br />http://www.cdgkonig.com/<br /><br />http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/<br /><br /><br />Jeff Jewitt

You can remove the partially cured linssed oil with naphtha and steel wool. You'd be much better off with a harder finish like shellac or varnish. Chances are pretty good the original was shellac, so that's what I would apply. <br /><br />Jeff

You can glue veneer to just about anything, but the choice of glue is important. What type of surface are you glueing to? Please describe in more detail. Is it wood, particleboard, formica, cultured marble?<br /><br />Jeff

I'd recommend that you wash-coat prior to application of TransTint Reddish Brown on the alder. The dye should be mixed with water in the proper ratio to achieve the color/intensity you want and a washcoat should be applied prior to the dye. I'd use an waterbase acrylic washcoat or shellac, but test on samples first. <br /><br />I'd go with an oil poly or varnish over the dye, as it will not lift it (dyes contain no binder). Waterlox, McCloskey, or most alkyd varnishes should do just fine.<br /><br />JJ

If the cabinets and trim have been pre-finished before installation, you have little to worry about. Properly done, a finish retards the extreme moisture intake that would occur in humidity swings. A hot and humid week isn't ideal for storage, but I don't see major problems in the long run. Prolonged storage (2 weeks plus) would be a concern. <br /><br />JJ

It all depends on at what point the color change is occurring. I'd say the best point to start would be with the finish supplier. Tell them they are getting a possible tannate reaction, and either put a tannin block on the bare wood or put an additive in the finish. <br /><br />In some cases a chelating compound can be added to the lacquer. Either way, this is a finish supplier problem. It's par for the course when dealing with oaks. <br />Jeff

You'll still experience grain raising when re-finishing, assuming you sand down past the surface layer that's been sealed and finished, thus exposing new wood.<br /><br /><br />Dyes will dry rapidly, and I'd suggest doing the staining as a two man operation. Have one person apply the dye, then another come back behind and feather it in. The applicator person can use a synthetic lambs wool applicator and the feather person can use the synyhetic mitts they sell for car washing in the wiping operation. If it's a one-person job, apply the dye and feather it in the same operation. It's best that you not get the applicator dripping wet when it's a one-person job. The best advice I can give you is as follows.<br /><br />1. Add a retarder like propylene glycol to the stain to slow it down. One ounce PG/qt is good. <br /><br />2. Work fast, and in a room that is not too hot and the windows are closed to avoid air blowing across the stain as you apply it. Once you've stained you can open up the window to air out the room. Start in one corner and work the whole floor, DON'T STOP. <br /><br />3. Dye -stained floors have the ability to be touched up if necessary before the topcoat is applied. <br /><br />4. I'd also use a lightfast dye. Ask the manufacturer if its a ``metallized`` dye. This type has the best lightfastness. <br /> <br /><br />Jeff

Danish oil does not build up to a hard durable finish that will resist wear and tear. Anything hot placed upon it, even with trivets and pads will still mark the finish. It's really not the fault of the finish, it's just that Danish oils can't be built up as a discrete layer of protection between the wood and potential sources of damage.<br /><br />Of course, if you ``baby`` the piece and treat it with care, a Danish Oil finish provides an attractive, low-luster, natural finish that's easily re-newed by re-oiling it every couple of years. <br /><br />By the way, most of the Scandinavian furniture thats been sold over the years as ``oiled`` teak is really a low luster catalyzed varnish or lacquer that's not built up on the wood to a significant film. You can achieve the same effect and get more protection than Danish oil by using 3-4 coats of a highly thinned varnish (thinned 50% with thinner). When the last coat has dried, rub the surface with 0000 steel wool to reduce the sheen. <br /><br />Jeff

By just looking at it no. A definitive test to distinguish between pines and cedars is done by looking at an end-grain sample under a microscope or 10x hand lens. Pines will have large resin canals (open round vessels) while cedars will not. You could have red pine which is fairly dark. <br /><br />You could try sanding or cutting it again and smelling - cedar has a pretty distinctive smell as opposed to the pitch/turpentine-like odor of pine. <br /><br />Jeff

Yes I got them and I left a message at your office to call me. Both Ang and I went over the samples thoroughly.<br /><br /><br />Jeff

Water base finishes can indeed suffer from adhesion issues, but I'm not aware of a problem adhereing to glue lines. Regardless, if there are adhesion issues, or a question regarding adhesion, a sealer coat of dewaxed shellac won't solve any problem areas.

The edges were probably originally beveled with a router. You should be able to re-bevel them with some 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around a hard piece of wood. Go slowly and take your time. <br /><br />After bevelling, scrub the piece with Dawn and water and a scotcbrite pad. Let dry. To apply paraffin wax, melt some canning wax in a double boiler, and brush it on the wood. Let it solidify. Then scrape the excess off using a piece of wood or plastic. A metal spatula works too. <br /><br />JJ

Whether you use a dye or pigment, they are both stains. Dyes are transparent, go deep into the wood and do not react to pore or surface texture of the wood. Pigment stains will lay on top of the surface of the wood and react to any surface texture or anomolies. As a general rule, dyes are the foundation of a multi-color finish and set the undertone. Pigment stains can be used over dyes to accentuate texture and such. Pigment stains are also lightfast, or at least most are, so if there is a question of lightfastness, go with a pigment. The metallized dye stain available should not be a problem as long as the furniture is used indoors. Ask specifically for metallized dyes. Dyes yield bold vivid transparent colors such as seen on custom figured guitars. Pigments can be used to even out wide tonal variations in wood by masking grain. Which stain is better???? It's hard to answer. You need to set the aesthetic look you want, the parameters of how complicated you want the finishing schedule to be and finally the performance. Most commercial schedules use both. JJ

Dye stains don't react to surface texture (like errant or low grit sanding scratches) the way that pigment stain does, so its really up to you. I typically go to 180 or 240. <br /><br />To get a really super finish though, follow this.<br /><br />1. Sand to 240. Then make a dilute version of your dye by taking one part of the mixed color and add 6 parts water to it. Let it dry.<br /><br />2. Sand again with 240. Don't worry if you sand through some of the color.<br /><br />3. Apply the dye again, this time full-strength. <br /><br />This will give you a very positive stain and will also minimize grain raising when you start to apply the finish.<br /><br />Jeff

Color shifts usually indicate a chemical reaction somewhere. The oaks are particularly high in tannin content which is one-half the reactant. Usually the color produced is a black or gray when iron salts from tap water or other components are used. <br /><br />I would need to review the entire finishing process to see if there is a potential culprit. I haven't heard much in the way of a green color problem, but color changes in the oaks is pretty much an ongoing issue. <br /><br />JJ

If you're matching the clear satin UV finished panel, I recommend a vinyl sealer followed by a satin CAB acrylic lacquer. I recommend Sherwin Williams for both of these products. <br /><br />For maximum durability, use Krystal post cat varnish by ML Campbell. A new product called Magnamax may work, but I haven't used it. Its a water white, pre-catalyzed version of the Krystal. Krystal will give you the most durability and ``look`` of the UV finished panel. <br /><br />Jeff <br />

Applying paste wax or other friction reducing products to machining surfaces will help alleviate the problem before it happens. <br /><br />Scratched surfaces can be made less noticeable by painting in the white scratch with some clear lacquer and an artist's brush. Unlike lacquer, which will re-dissolve, the UV finish will still show the scratch in certain lights, so try to orient the panel so its vertical and not horizontal<br /><br />Jeff

It sounds like ``splotching`` or uneven staining. This problem is typically eliminated by washcoating, glu-sizing or proper spray application of stains. The problem is most prevalent with oil based pigment/dye stains like Minwax. You may have to switch to a gel stain. <br /><br />Jeff

There's only a few options, because any film forming finish built up on the surface (like lacquer or poly) will flake off under the constant cutting of the knife on the surface.<br /><br />1. No finish. This is perfectly fine and the way I do it. It's also the easiest. Studies done also indicate bare wood resists mircrobial propagation as opposed to plastic or synthetic cutting boards.<br /><br />2. Mineral oil. This non-toxic, non-drying oil will give the board shine and some luster to show off the grain, and it's easily renewed.<br /><br />3. Shellac. This non-toxic finish, if applied as just several light coats will be attractive and easily renewed when it gets damaged. Just don't build it up as a surface film. <br /><br /><br />Jeff

There's several options. <br /><br />1. To keep the natural color of the wood, a marine varnish (tung oil/phenolic resin) is best. Unfortunately any clear finish will degrade quickly under the sun, so you'll need to apply upwards of 6-8 coats. You resand the table every two years and apply more varnish. <br /><br />2. Sikkens Cetol and Penofin are oil based penetrating finishes which will give you a natural, ``In the wood`` look - but will need to be maintained fairly frequently. Both these companies have websites.<br /><br />3. The US Forest Forest Products Lab recomends a penetrating oil finish with iron oxides. These are stains and will change the color of the wood. There's not a wide palettte to choose from as these oxides are only avaialable as red or yellow. The iron oxide absorbs harmful UV light and dissapates it harmlessly as heat. This protects both the wood and the resins in the stain from breaking down. <br /><br />4. No finish. Western red cedar will fare just fine without a finish but will weather to a silver-gray. Being the type that I am with housework, I'd give this option some serious thought.<br /><br /><br />Jeff Jewitt

The best thing to do would be to equalize the two woods with a two-part (A/B) wood bleach. Work a sample up and show it to the customer. If necssary, a light stain or toner could be applied if the color is too white. <br /><br />It is possible to selectively bleach or tone the light parts to the dark parts, but it requires a lot of extra work.<br /><br />JJ

For a flooring finish, nothing beats urethane for longevity and durability. It's very versatile in a flooring system and there are dozens of good ones out there. Some are actually made using oils, so they may have a hint of color. If you want a true water-white, you may need to look at an acrylic/urethane. Boni-kemi, Absolute Coatings, Target, Fuhr all make good ones. Use the names I listed and do a keyword websearch on Google and you'll get plenty of info. Jeff

You have some work cut out for you.<br /><br />To repair the loose base, you have to take it apart, clean all the joints and tighten them up with new wood shims if they are loose. Then re-glue. As long as the joint is clean and tight, it will glue just fine. Here's an article on joint repair<br /><br />http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/Furniture%20joints.htm<br /><br />Any finish will telegraph low spots. You should sand the whole top down (assuming it's solid wood) to the same level, or at least feather sand the low area into the rest of the top. If its veneer, I'd just lightly feather sand it as you risk cutting through with aggresive sanding.<br /><br />A quality sanded surface should reflect light evenly when viewed in backlighting. Then go on to the staining. You can apply some mineral spirits before the stain to see if you missed, and areas, like the low spot or sanding scratches, that you didn't get out. <br /><br />Jeff

I'm not entirely sure of the cause. W/B acrylics tend to be optically nuetral and water clear. If it were a gray or green color, I'd suspect a tannate reaction. Do you get the same effect when you wipe both with plain water?<br /><br />Veneers almost always finish differently from solids with a natural finish. To counter the effect, you'd have to use a very dilute green or blue dye in your lacquer and apply it just to the veneer. This could be time consuming though and hard to do. What I would do is to apply a sealer of a different finish resin under the acrylic. I'd use dewaxed bleached shellac which you can now buy pre-mixed as Zinssers ``Seal Coat``. Run the shellac/acrylic through on some samples and the acrylic only and compare. <br /><br />Jeff

Any surface texture defect will be exagerated if you apply a stain and wipe it. Water based dyes will be the best if you have to wipe a stain on. If you can spray the stain and not wipe it, this will give you the best results. <br /><br />The use of glue-size if you're using a clear coat will also help to minimize rough grain, but there may be some visibility.<br /><br />Jeff

Most products are sanded to 180 or 220 unless the customer orders different procedures (like touch sanding). <br /><br />During storage, handling and fabrication the wood may get scratched, burnished or slightly oxidized. I recommend, starting with 150 and up to 180 or 220. Hand sand with the grain. Wiping the wood with mineral spirits or alcohol will highlight and possible problems like missed dings and dents and low grit scratches.

You can purchase it from my company - Homestead Finishing Products. We carry padding cloth, as well as the cover cloth used in French Polishing.<br /><br /><br />Jeff<br /><br />www.homesteadfinishing.com<br />

No, this ``miracle`` finish does not yet exist. The best you could hope for is a penetrating type finish like Penofin that has to be applied every year. Even with this, expect some gray staining and checking if it gets wet or damp. Best to keep these chairs out of the direct sun and in a dry porch. <br /><br />Jeff

Wow, that covers a lot of territory.<br /><br />1. I personally think no stain is ``best`` for cherry., I prefer my own cherry furniture to darken naturally. As for clear finishes, I prefer oils and oil based finishes for cherry such as varnish. Boiled linseed oil followed by lacquer or shellac is a favorite. <br /><br />2. A stain can be either dye based, pigment based or a combination of the two. Dyes allow transparency and uniformity, while pigments provide grain definition and better lightfastness. Most commercial finishes utilize both. As a general rule, pigment stains look best on open-grained ring porous woods like oak and ash. Close grained woods like maple respond better to a dye. Diffuse porous woods like birch, mahogany and walnut can take either, but a dye, followed by a pigment based glaze looks good. <br /><br />3. For dye colors, you do not need a huge arsenal. I recommend to most that you get a honey amber, medium brown, reddish brown and dark walnut. Then get red, green and black and you'll be covered for most color matching.<br /><br />JJ

It could be a number of things. One, the glue may have come through some of the more porous areas of the burl when you pressed it, and was ``pre-sealed`` causing the finish to absorb unevenly. Two, the porous areas of the burl are just absorbing the finish more so than others, resulting in an uneven build. <br /><br />Best thing to do is to just sand back the finish and apply another coat and see what it looks like. Or just 0000 steel wool the whole surface to give it the same sheen.<br /> <br />That type of burl is tough to press and finish. Next time - after sanding, I'd probably use a glue size. You use this after sanding to 180. Apply the size, then let it dry. Then sand again with 220. This ``plugs`` up the more porous areas, and allows solvent based (don't use it with water base) to build more evenly.<br /><br />Jeff

Use mineral spirits to thin. Yes, the advice is correct as most of the time, a flawless surface isnt possible. Rubbing out removes defects and puts an even sheen on the surface.<br /><br />http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/rubbingout.htm<br /><br /><br />Jeff

I agree that many don't distinguish between the two, and the largest and most well-known (minwax) doesn't) Here's a general guide.<br /><br />1. Minwax uses both. Typically the really light colors are dyes and the darker, richer colors are pigment/dye<br /><br />2. Any stain that says ``for exterior or interior use`` is a pigment. <br /><br />3. Every gel stain I know of is primarily pigment with the exception of Clearwater Color Co's ``Smooth and Simple``<br /><br />4. Read the label. I pulled two of the stain off the shelf that we sell (Bartley Gel and McCloskey Tungseal) and they both identified the colorant. Pigment may be called an iron or natural or micronized oxide. Dye may be called ``dyestuff``. <br /><br /><br />Jeff

Oils (linseed and tung) natural, in the wood finishes, typically applied by rag. <br /><br />Varnishes --- the most durable finish that can be hand applied, with polyurethane varnish the most durable. Best applied by brush<br /><br />Lacquers --- these fast dry finishes can be water or solvent based and are almost always applied by spray. Biggest advantage is that they dry before settling dust can pose a problem. Most typical is Nitrocellulose. <br /><br />Catalyzed Varnishes and Lacquers --- these reactive finishes dry through a chemical process to a tough film. Catalyzed varnishes are the most durable, followed by catalyzed lacquer, then the pre-catalyzed lacquers. Always applied by spray. <br /><br />Jeff

If you're matching the clear satin UV finished panel, I recommend a vinyl sealer followed by a CAB acrylic lacquer. ML Campbell has one. For maximum durability, use Krystal post cat varnish, also by ML Campbell. The Magnalac will be too yellow. A new product called Magnamax may work, but I haven't used it. It's a water white version of the Magnalac. <br /><br />I'm not sure what you mean by ``stain color`` as the panels are unstained. But if you mean will the color of the finish stay the same, Magnalac will yellow much more so than the UV finished panels. Magnalac has both Nitrocellulose and I'm pretty sure an alkyd that's prone to yellowing. The Krystal has neither, and the CAB acrylic won't yellow at all.<br /><br />If you're putting finish over the UV finish, sand it first with 400 grit to improve adhesion. If you want to check for adhesion, apply the finish, let it dry, and then make a 2`` x 3`` X through the finish. Put a piece of tape over it and tear it off. If the finish delaminates, it means poor adhesion. If just a bit tears off along the X, its probably OK. <br />You could improve adhesion by use of a tie coat of freshly made dewaxed shellac or perhaps vinyl sealer.<br /><br />Jeff Jewitt<br /><br />

One of the easiest ways to handle this is by pre-staining as you suggested. However, another way is to apply the water stain, and then come back over that with a similar or darker color oil stain or water glaze. <br /><br />In our shop, we regularly use an oil stain after the water stain, to increase depth and grain enhancement. We spray it, then wipe or brush it into the corners to cover the areas that don't get stained well. If your topcoat can tolerate the oil, use that as it has a longer open time so you can wipe it easier. Then topcoat.<br /><br />If this is not going to work for you you may want to check into using a water stain that you can use afterwards as a pad stain to touch up any bad areas. Contact me privately if you need a suggestion (jbjewitt@gwis.com)<br /><br />Of course, this will add an extra step(s), so you may want to add that into your total costs. <br /><br />Jeff

I doubt you'll find anything less than a 20 degree, as film and performance properties become comprimised when too much flatting agent is added. <br /><br />Lilly is perhaps the largest and one of the most respected and is now owned by Valspar. Global Resistovar is their conversion varnish. <br /><br />http://www.valsparwood.com/<br /><br />Sherwin Williams and ML Campbell have distribuition in large cities as well. <br /><br /><br />I can't say any of these particular products are better than others. What makes a difference is the tech support. Go with a product that has technical service to back up their products<br /><br />Jeff<br /><br />

To repair the loose and rickety part, you need to disassemble all the loose joints and make them tight again. This may involve gluing new wood shims to the cheeks of tenons and such so you get good wood-to-wood contact. Then clean the joints with sandpaper and re-glue. <br /><br />Now for the first question. It isn't clear what you did. If you sanded through the top wood and it's veneer, you're in for trouble, as the area will not stain the same color. In our shop, we compensate by touching in or inpainting fake wood color with dry powders. You could use artist acrylic colors. It's a bugger to do well........<br /><br />If all you did was sand through the patina and the top is solid wood, you'll simply have to sand the area to a consistent color. If the spot is lower. you need to feather it into the rest of the top. It doesn't have to be perfect as the stain may even things out, but you can get a good idea of how things will stain by wetting the bare wood with mineral spirits first and looking at the top with light from behind. This will preview whether or not you'll get a consistent stain color. <br /><br />Jeff

If by undercoat you mean sealer, it depends. Sealers are designed to speed up the finishing process by allowing faster and more even build of lacquer topcoats. Sanding sealer and vinyl sealers will both accomplish this. However many finishes are ``self-sealing`` and these include conversion lacquers and varnishes as well as most water base finishes and oil based polyurethane. <br /><br />Dye stain penetration can be more even if a thin sealer called a wash-coat is used. It can be shellac, vinyl, sanding sealer, or glue size. These are applied, allowed to dry, then sanded. What this does is to seal off the more porous areas.

Cherry is prone to splotching or uneven staining. My own take on this is that some will call the appearance ``figured`` and some call it splotchy. The appearance on unstained wood, and if the veneer is well bookmatched, can be taken as highly figured. On solid wood or random matched, the appearance could be desribed as ``blotchy``, either stained or unstained. <br />The real answer depends on whether or not your customer wants an even finish. This is done by creating samples and showing them. If they want a very even staining, like on many kitchen cabinets, I'd suggest spraying an NGR stain and not wiping it. Seal with a washcoat, and if you want to emphasize the grain, apply an oil stain. If not a toner will even things out. It takes a good spraygun operator to achieve this.<br />If you are hand applying an oil stain, use a stain conditioner or Nelsonite. A washcoat of shellac also helps. Shops use different techniques depending on how their finishers were trained. <br /><br />Jeff

Gary,<br /><br />Sorry this took so long. I finally had a chance to look at the samples in great detail. There does not appear to be a natural problem. I'm forwarding some of the sample to Ang for his input. I'll keep you advised. <br /><br />Jeff

In my latest book - Great Wood Finishes, there are some techniques covered that will simulate the faux finish that you stripped. In a nutshell<br /><br />1. Paint the base grain, which is the cream color you describe. You may be able to find this pre-mixed, but if not, a reasonable mix can be made by adding raw and burnt sienna to some off white paint. You could also use artist oil colors. Let this dry.<br /><br />2. Apply a dark brown oil based glaze, which is a thick type of slow drying stain-like product. You manipulate this to similate grain by using tools like feathers, brushed, graining combs and the like. Let it dry.<br /><br />3. Seal everything in with a coat of solvent lacquer or oil based varnish. Shellac can be used as well. <br /><br />There are dozens of books in the library on these techniques. You might look under decorative painting, faux wood graining as well.

Leave the insides unstained and never use an oil based finish inside drawers. The smell will linger forever and it gets in the clothes. <br /><br />Just use two coats of shellac on the drawer insides, then a coat of paste wax. This gives them a nice soft sheen as well as feel. The shellac/wax combo leaves no lingering odors after several days dry time.<br /><br />Jeff

Dyes should always be applied to the bare wood, unless splotching is a problem, in which a washcoat of shellac or sanding sealer could be used. Undercoats for finishes are called sealers, and should be used when speed in production is an issue or a sealer is necessary to seal problems in the woods, like in refinishing.<br /><br />Sanding and vinyl sealers are the 2 most common sealers used and vinyl will make the finish more moisture resistant. Sanding sealer is used to provide better holdout for finishes applied over them, and provides an easy to sand footing for finishes applied over them. Vinyl is always specified if you want to use a sealer for the catalyzed finishes.<br /><br />Many finishes are self-sealing and really don't need a special sealer. These include the catalyzed varnishes and lacquers, polyurethane and water base finishes.<br /><br />

Sure<br /><br />JB Jewitt Co<br />1935 W 96th St Unit Q<br />Cleveland, OH 44102<br /><br />ATTN -- Jeff Jewitt

One of two ways ---- <br /><br />1. If you want a glass-smooth finish, a paste wood filler is typically used, which bulks up the pore cavities, so finishing products build up smoothly, without the pore outline telegraphing through. This is sometimes called a filled pore finish. On walnut and mahogany, this lends elegance and refinement<br /><br />2. A more natural appearance is achieved by not using a paste wood filler. The pores are still visible, and this look is traditional for oaks and ash, though it's really an aesthetic decision<br /><br />Jeff

Glu-sizing is a polular way to deal with splotching, when using alcohol stains. It's applied to the wood, allowed to dry then sanded. The sizing seals the more porous areas, preventing the dye from darkening these areas too much.

The best product for non-yellowing and clarity, no color, is a water base polyurethane. Pro's have pretty much switched over to these products for the reasons you mention, as well as the faster dry time and low odor. Most can be put over an oil-based stain, but check with the manufacturer. <br /><br />Jeff

Although I consider myself pretty good as far as touch up skills are considered, this is next to impossible to repair. There are other chemicals in nail polish remover aside from acetone that can cause all sorts of problems with a spot repair. Take it off and refinish it. <br />If there is any saving grace in all of this, the nail polish damage tells you it's lacquer, and probably Nitrocellulose, which you should be able to get at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.<br /><br />Jeff Jewitt

To accentuate the grain and keep the flat grain lighter, use a pigment or gel stain. To downplay the grain and color the wood evenely use a dye base stain like a water dye or solvent NGR. Some stains like Minwax Red Mahogany contain both and give you the best of both worlds. The only way to see how the stain acts is to create samples<br /><br /><br />Jeff

There is a company that produces a two part chemical treatment that is designed to do exactly what you want. It's called Old Growth and its available through Woodworker's Supply (800-645-9292). Its a two step process that works by a chemical reaction to produce a deep and lighfast color change. As with all chemical stains, its very important to practice on samples.<br /><br />Jeff

TransTint will not mix with Watco Oil. It will mix with<br />oil based varnishes if you cut it into acetone first (1 part TT to 4 parts acetone)If you use straight linseed oil with out mineral spirits, the TT/acetone will work.<br /><br />Jeff<br />

One of two ways<br /><br />1. For a glass smooth finish, start with paste wood filler<br />which fills up the pores so finish flows smoothly without telegraphing<br />the pore outline. You can also spray several thick coats of a conversion lacquer or varnish and sand back. <br /><br />2. For a more natural look, don't use a paste wood filler.<br /><br /><br />Woods like walnut and mahogany ``generally`` look good with a paste wood filler if you're after a refined, elegant look. Today's fashion is more towards matte, light and more natural, so paste wood fillers wouldn't be recommended. <br /><br />Please note that paste wood filler does not provide any extra protection or durability. It's an aesthetic decision based upon what you want the wood to look like.

I know of nothing, other than to hand paint them out using a fine artists brush and touch up pigments. This works best if the stain is dark. Mohawk has technical and field reps that can assist shops in the correct products and their use. <br /><br />Jeff